It won't rip your Master Patterns!

I have just recently been introduced to Scotch Brand Removable Tape.  This is the most exciting thing since sliced bread!  I absolutely love it and it's perfect for taping the tracing vellum to the SFD Master Patterns.

I've had numerous customers email asking what tape to use when laying the tracing vellum over top of the Master Patterns.  Regular plastic tape will often rip the top layer of paper fibers off the Master Pattern.  I'm sure many of you have watched some of my educational videos showing you how to use the SFD patterns, and have noticed the blue tape I've been using.  That is the blue painter's tape.  I still use it to secure the Master Patterns to the wall (so that I don't take the surface of the paint off the wall when I remove them).  This blue tape also has worked well enough when taping the vellum to the Master Patterns.  But in a recent hands-on fitting class I just gave, one of my students brought this Removable Tape.  It was the first time I'd ever seen it.

In this photo, I know you can hardly see it, but the Tracing Vellum is taped on to the Master Pattern in the upper right corner.  (And don't you just love this tracing vellum?  It really is so clear, durable and see-through that it's difficult to take a picture showing you that it is laying on top.)  When I took the display down, the tape pulled off like magic - no rips or tears.  I know they can't call it magic tape, since that name is already used for another product.  But it certainly works well for our SFD purposes.    You should be able to purchase this Removable Tape in most office supply stores.

Kindly,
Glenda

Adding a Shoulder Dart

There have been a few ladies with rounded shoulders (not just rounded backs) who have asked how to add a shoulder dart to either the Dress Kit Back Bodice or to the back of the Shirt pattern.  Here's a simple technique for adding a shoulder dart.

Step 1.  Draw line A to B as illustrated.  This line should be at a level where the most rounding or protruding fullness is on your back.  Then draw line C to D as shown.  This line does not have to be at a right angle to A-B, but the angle that you choose will affect the final position of the dart therefore, it should be at a pleasing angle for your specific body shape.  You may need to sew a couple of tests to make sure you’re pleased with the results.

Step 2.  Cut from A to B and from C to D, leaving a paper hinge at the armscye and at point D on line A-B.

Step 3.  Spread the shoulder area of the pattern open as shown always maintaining the paper hinge points.  This will open up a small dart shape in the shoulder seam line and will automatically lengthen CB.  Often people with rounded, protruding shoulder blades also have some rounding at the upper back and this extra length will help the bodice/top to sit more comfortably.  Additionally, depending on how rounded your entire back is, you may also want to add a CB seam which is shaped/curved to suit your body contours.  For Rounded Back instructions, see Page 14 #3 in the Minor Tune-Ups section of the Dress Kit Instruction Book.

Step 4.  This technique for adding a shoulder dart shouldn't distort the armscye significantly. However, if the armscye appears too angled at the armscye hinge pivot point, make sure to blend/true to create a smooth curve.

Sheer Experiences

Sheers are quite popular right now.  I love animal prints, and this particular piece kept saying ‘Buy Me’.  So I did.  It’s a drapable sheer which I thought would be pretty sewn up as the Asymmetrical Wrap Blouse.  This design has a turn-back lining and then cascades down to the hem.  So far, so good!

Then I underlined and lined this top.  Here’s where I think I made a bit of a tactical error.  I underlined in black, then, lined it with fashion fabric.  When the front drape is flipped back, of course, you see the fashion fabric.  Ultimately, I think it would have been prettier and more dramatic to simply have lined the entire blouse with the black.  Then when the front flipped back, the black would have cascaded downward.  It definitely would have added more drama.  So when it was all said and done, I decided the next best thing was to use a contrasting black belt.

I ended up making my sheer blouse opaque.  This was partly by design because I’m always cold no matter whether we’re in the heat of summer or the dead of winter.  I didn’t want a flimsy, see-through top.  I didn’t want to feel cold.  And I didn’t want to have to think about wearing T-shirts underneath for this to feel comfortable.

The other issue that popped up once I donned the finished blouse, is that the fabric had a gold thread running through it.  I loved the sparkle, but forgot the ‘scratch factor’.  My skin is very sensitive.  Oh well, for short periods of wearing, I likely can survive.

The pattern is actually Style #3 – the Asymmetrical Wrap Blouse – from my latest book/DVD, Sew Sensational Shirts.

To see all the tips and techniques of working and sewing with a sheer, please follow this link to the extensive article ‘Sheer Sew-How’ that I’ve recently added to the Article Library in the SFD Learning Center.

Now, take a look at Margaret.  Her sheer blouse is just that – SHEER.  She is wearing it over top of a complimentary colored tank top.  Change the color of the tank top and present a totally different effect.  It’s beautiful, Margaret, and you look so comfortable in it.  Well done!

(Permission from Margaret and Joyful Expressions)

Sew September! National Sewing Month

September is National Sewing Month (in the USA).  I thought it might be a nice idea to brainstorm with you as to why you sew.  I'll start the list and I invite you to add your comments and reasons why you sew.

• Sew because nothing fits to your liking in R-T-W.
• Sew because it provides you a creative outlet.
• Sew for the fun of it.
• Sew because you love it.
• Sew for fellowship.
• Sew for inspiration.
• Sew for style.
• Sew for comfort.
• Sew for unique, distinctive clothing.
• Sew for quality construction.
• Just sew...because you can!

Please feel free to add your comments.
Kindly,
Glenda

Have You Fallen off the Waist/Crotch Grid on your SFD Pants Pattern?

If you have a thick waist and fairly short front crotch length, when you are drawing off your SFD Pants Front Pattern, your numbers may fall off the Waist/Crotch Grid that is provided on the Pants Master pattern.

The remedy is so logical (as are most solutions with SFD).  You simply extend the grid lines.  I've posted a short, but informative article on drawing the solution on Adapting & Drawing the Waist/Crotch Grid.  This article is found in the SFD Learning Center - Article Library.  There's also a couple of photos of a what one person's body looks like with this situation and required this solution.  You'll want to check out this article.

I hope you can see the photo of how easy this is to do. 

And as always, contact me if you need more assistance.

Kindly,
Glenda

Everything Old is New Again

Not too long ago, in fact it was in the May 31, 2012 edition of the Wall Street Journal, I saw this article called: Jean Mutation: How Red, Pink and Mustard Took Over.  It says ‘Bye, Bye, Blues…J Brand jump-started the color trend in Feb. 2011.  Since then, many denim brands have followed with bright, distinctive hues such as mustard, green and red.’  The article’s author, Christina Binkley says, ‘It’s hard to miss the season’s most prominent denim trend: blinding color!’

Here’s what they look like.

 

Now, let’s jump back to 1984!  Here I am in my SFD hot pink jeans with turquoise blouse trimmed in hot pink.  They were skinny, very trim fitting jeans designed from the SFD Pants Kit.  I may not be tall and skinny or wearing high platform shoes, but I loved them!

 

Though they wouldn’t fit me now, you can see why I say ‘Everything old is new again!’  If you wait long enough, the fashion cycle rolls back around and our old clothes become the newest fashion.

Kindly,

Glenda

P.S. - Yes, my husband's shirt is from the SFD Shirt Kit.  My blouse is from the Dress Kit.

Finishing a Knit Top V-Neck

There are often many different ways to accomplish any task - like how best to finish off the raw edge of V-Neck T-shirt or top.  I'd like to share with you an easy technique that my friend Joy - from Joyful Expressions - uses very successfully.

Joy not only has written instructions, found here - Joyful Expressions - but she has also prepared a video tutorial on finishing the knit V-neck.  I encourage you to watch it.  You will notice that she is using her Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit bodice for her pattern.  (Joy has made so many SFD blouses and tops, that she has a body blueprint (personal sloper) for working with both wovens and knit fabrics.  Also, you'll likely notice that she has moved the side bust dart down into the lower side seam.)

During this tutorial, she shows you how to draw/trace a facing for the neckline.  In addition to her visual instructions, please realize that the written instructions for drawing a perfectly fitting facing are found on page 20 of the SFD Dress Kit Instruction Book.

This is a 2-Part Tutorial.  Here's Part 1.

Part 2

Thanks for sharing, Joy.

Kindly
Glenda

Technique: Stitching a V-Neck

Stitching a V-neck, which results in a sharp 'V' point when the facing is turned, is easy with this technique.

Begin by using a magic, disappearing marking pen or tracing paper to mark the stitching line for the V-neck.  This visually helps so that you can see where to stop the stitching to make the first pivot.

The facing has been prepared with interfacing and pinned in place to the neck edge.

When you are stitching the seam allowance (either 5/8" or 3/8" (1.6cm or 1.0cm), as you get to within 1" (2.5cm) of the actual 'V' point, tighten up the regular stitch length to become very tight stitches.  When you get to the point, leave the needle in the 'down' position and pivot the fabric around the needle until you are able to stitch across the point with one or two of these tiny reinforcement stitches.  Then pivot one more time before you begin stitching up the other side of the 'V'.  Keep the stitches tight and small for about 1" (2.5cm) as you sew up the other side, then lengthen the stitches back to normal to complete sewing the neck seam.

Here is a very clear illustration of what your stitching should look like.  I've exaggerated the illustration of the stitch length so that you can see where the stitches begin to get tighter.

Once you've competed stitching the neckline, very carefully clip through the seam allowance up to the 'V' point.  You may want to stop the clip back a very short distance, then clip diagonally to each pivot point.  Be very careful NOT to clip through the stitches.  You will also want to trim away any excess seam allowance to almost nothing right at the point.  But for the remainder of the seam allowance, you should leave enough trimmed allowance to allow for understitching. 

The purpose of stitching across the bottom of the 'V', allows for the 'turn of the cloth' when the facing is turned to the inside.  And, understitching the facing to the seam allowance helps the facing to lay flat on the inside.

This V-neck stitching technique is suitable for either knits or woven fabric.

Next week, watch helpful videos on making the facing lay flat on the inside of a V-neck knit top which are provided from Joyful Expressions.

Happy fitting and sewing,
Glenda

So Refreshing...So Summery!

Thanks for sharing your latest sewing projects and accomplishments.  Carolyn has created the most attractive summer outfit - bright and cheerful, yet delicate, refreshing and summery.

You'll want to read of her successful weight loss and as she continues to shed more pounds, Sure-Fit Designs is being used to help maintain her wardrobe.

To read Carolyn's complete comments about her progress and her wardrobe, visit Carolyn's Sewing Room.

Caring for my Designing Stylus

Glenda,

I have been using my Designing Stylus a lot and I have been drawing my patterns in pencil, so my Design Stylus is getting messy dirty from the pencil and my little finger prints.
How do I keep my Design Stylus clean?

And thank you for the video "GI.4 Designing Stylus - What it is and how to use it." from the Sure-Fit Designs Learning Center.

 Hi Becca,
What an excellent question!  First of all, if you have a nice, big, fat, soft eraser, you should be able to erase the pencil smudges.  And the Designing Stylus is totally washable.  Just use some warm soapy water and that also should clean it up fairly well.

But Shelby from Kentucky wrote in a while back with this 'pencil tip'.  I would like to add a tip about using a mechanical pencil to trace SFD blueprints. Using a .5mm or .7mm mechanical pencil with HD lead makes the lines very accurate and thin and HD doesn't smear easily. The lines don't change size as you use the lead like a regular pencil and you can buy replacement lead to keep handy. These pencils come in many colors, so I buy them in a pack and keep several handy because they tend to "walk" under things on the table and the bright colors make them easy to spot. They work really well with the "big, fat eraser."