Apr 18, 2017

Pockets for Pull-on Pants

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Recently a customer brought up a good question.  When designing and sewing a pair of pull-on pants with an elastic waist edge, what is the best design shape for the inseam pocket so that it will extend up into the waist edge for stability, yet without causing too much bulk?

Here is short blog with a clear illustration of the design change to make to the Inseam Pocket shape provided in your Sure-Fit Designs Pants master patterns.

The original inseam pocket shape (from the Pants master pattern sheet) is drawn in pencil and is indicated with black arrows.

Alternative #1 is to re-draw the pocket shape as indicated with my red lines.  You're basically taking the tear drop pocket shape a little wider at the top and extend it about 1/2" into the casing allowance for the elastic.  In this example, the elastic to be used is planned at 1" wide, therefore the casing requirement is drawn at 2" wide.  This will give more stability to the pocket so that it's not flopping around on the inside of the pants, and the 1/2" extension into the casing means the top of the pocket will get enclosed as the fold is made in the casing.

Alternative #2, which is indicated by the green lines takes the pocket pretty much straight up and extends it 1" (or almost 1") into the casing allotment. This alternative would definitely added more width-wise stability, but will add a little more bulk in the casing.

If you were using a medium to heavy weight knit for these pull-on pants, I'd suggest using Alternative #1.  If using a lighter weight knit, then Alternative #2 would be appropriate.  The choice is yours but it will primarily depend on your fabric weight.

Give a try re-drawing the pocket shape.  It's easy to do and will result in a much more stable pocket on the inside.

Directions for sewing this particular style of inseam pocket are found on Page 25 of the  Sure-Fit Designs Pants Kit Instruction Book.

Directions for designing the Pull-on Pants are found on Page 24 of the Sure-Fit Designs Pants Kit Instruction Book.

Happy Sewing!

Apr 11, 2017

Fit & Sew Retreat - March 2017

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Another Sure-Fit Designs successful Fit & Sew Retreat has come and gone.  We had a lively, full group of ladies attending from Texas, Colorado, Nevada, California and Oregon.


Here is a sampling of both the pants and bodices as we work our way through the fit and any necessary fit refinements.  Please pardon the obvious fabric wrinkles that have absolutely nothing to do with the fit of the garment.






Then came the 3 days of bodice blueprints.






All were pretty satisfied...and pretty tired at the end of 6 days.  This last photo is of our Celebration and Farewell Event.


Happy smiles!

Thanks so much to all of you for attending.

If any of you reading are interested in attending, please click on over to the Fit & Sew Retreat details page.  Make sure you send a direct email to me to be put on the 'short list' - email: info@surefitdesigns.com.

Happy Sewing!


Apr 3, 2017

Little Black Leggings (LBL)

I've recently introduced our Little Black Dress (LBD) Sew Along.  Today I want to discuss my recently sewn little black leggings (LBL).  They are so simple to design, cut and sew that they definitely qualify as a Made in a Day project.


(Sorry, they are in basic black, so unfortunately you can't see much detail.  But they are pretty basic - no fancy color blocking or designing.  I needed them to wear with the High Low Hem Swing Top (Dress Kit Instruction Book pg. 38-39) to wear at the Fit & Sew Retreat).


In case you didn't see the post a few moons ago on designing the No-Side Seam Leggings, here's the short video to introduce you to designing them.  You'll most likely need to go to our Learning Center or YouTube to see this video, as I know it doesn't display in many email programs.  Go to http://www.sfdlearningcenter.com/Pants-Videos-Designing.html and look for P.12 - How to Draw Leggings without a Side Seam.


A point of discussion...how much elastic to use at the waist?  This is asked repeatedly.  Here is the elastic I used - 1" (2.5cm), non-roll elastic, with almost 100% stretch.  You'll likely recognize it.


My waist is 28".  I cut the elastic 23" - removing 5".  To be on the safe side, I pinned it in a circle and made sure it pulled up over my hips.   How much you remove (meaning your waist measurement minus 'X' amount is going to be determined by 3 factors: the width of the elastic, the stretch of the elastic, and how YOU like it to feel on your body).  Sorry there really are no hard and fast rules about how much to remove as the factors are too variable.  You just have to pin and test!

When it was applied to the waist edge, it feels quite comfortable in the finished leggings.


Here's a close-up view.  Sorry the color is off, but in order for you to see the stitching detail, I needed to make some color modifications in Photoshop.  They really are a lovely rich, dark black.

If you're unsure of how to sew this elastic application, I have this covered in our Make it Sew sewing series DVD for beginners and intermediate sewists.  See - http://www.surefitdesigns.com/MakeItSew.html

To construct these, I used all 3 sewing machines - the serger for the inseams and crotch seam, the Cover Stitch machine for the hem, and the regular machine to zigzag the elastic in position...I love 'em all!

Give them a try.  They really are a Made in a Day project.

Happy Leggings Making!😊


Mar 28, 2017

Oh my Flat Backside!



Do you have a flat backside?  If you do, you might experience bagging under your backside when wearing pants.
In this video, see how to refine the fit of the pants back when drawing the Sure-Fit Designs™ Pants pattern to accommodate a flat backside.  This is a common issue for lots of women and men and no matter your gender, the process to resolve this issue is the same.

And for some crazy reason, you can no longer view these videos when looking at your emails.  You will need to click through to my web page where all these short video tutorials are listed.  Please go to http://www.sfdlearningcenter.com/Pants-Videos-RefiningFit.html  

I know the videos are in a small viewing format.  That's to reduce file size with the hosting company I use.  However, you can easily click on the title of the video and will automatically open up in YouTube where you can watch it in a larger viewing format.

Happy Sewing...
Glenda the Good Stitch
   

Mar 21, 2017

Pleated Sleeve Detail

You remember this blouse that I'm wearing in the new Darts DVD - Versatile & Amazing



I've had many lovely comments about this blouse and some of you wondering exactly what I did to design the pleated sleeve.

I know you'll love it as it's so simple to add the pleat detail.   Use your sleeve pattern for woven fabric which has the elbow dart.  I left the elbow dart where it was.  If you wanted to, you could transfer it down to the hem line and 'remove' it...I chose to leave it in place.  If you're sewing with a knit fabric, then of course you'd use the sleeve pattern for knit/stretch fabric.

Here's what I did to the pattern.
1. Split it from the cap notch down through the hem level.
2. Spread the opening 2" (5cm).
3. Folded it as an inverted pleat - meaning each side of the pleat ends up being 1/2" (1.3cm) wide.

4. I stitched the inside/center of the fold down about 1" (2.5cm) down from the cap stitching line.  From the hem edge up, I stitched the inside/center of the fold up about 2" (5cm), so that when the hem was turned up inside the pleat would be secure.


5. Then I added a decorative (non-functioning) button to finish the hem off.

For the back of the blouse, I also added the same width for a center back inverted pleat and I shaped the hem to be just a little longer in the back.



I hope you enjoy designing and sewing this fashion blouse from your Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit.  It's all pretty simple when your bodice blueprint (sloper) fits just you.

Happy Sewing!

Mar 14, 2017

Darts: Versatile & Amazing

Have you ever looked at a dress and wondered how the darts got into that unique position?  This new Sure-Fit Designs DVD tutorial is going to answer many of the questions you may have regarding the stunning array of dart positions and design possibilities.  Please watch the short introductory video below showing you highlights of this Darts DVD tutorial.  (You may need to open up this email in a browser in order to see the video, as frequently this link does not show up in your email  program).








It's almost magical how it all happens.  You'll love seeing the versatility and amazing possibilities of where your basic waist and bust fitting darts can be moved to and how they no longer look basic.

Highlighted in this course will be moving darts into the following positions:
  • Triple, parallel shoulder pleats.
  • Graduated and radiating darts from the neckline.
  • Angled and parallel center front darts.
  • Asymmetrical, curved and parallel darts from the waist and armscye.


Experience this dart designing fashion fun for yourself and in doing so build your confidence for designing on your own.  You'll follow me...Glenda the Good Stitch...in my usual highly detailed lessons taking you step-by-step through each transferring process in this 1.5hr. long DVD tutorial.

To introduce you to this new DVD, we're offering a 20% Introductory Special.
It's regularly $14.95...Now only $11.95...Simply use Discount Code darts20 during checkout.
Please order from this special Promo link - Click Here
Offer is good through Wed. March 22, 2017 

Remember, now when you purchase the physical DVD, you will also receive the 100% discount code to watch the lessons in streaming video format in our new online platform - www.sewfitacademyonline.com. Simply watch for my 'Thank you Letter' in your email inbox which will contain this discount code.




Happy darting!
Glenda...the Good Stitch
 

Mar 9, 2017

The Little Black Dress Sew Along

There is something about a fitted  'little black dress' that is tantalizing and that cannot be replaced in a colorful dress.  (London designer Roland Mouret states).  And as Christian Dior said, 'every lady should have (at least) one little black dress'.


Join Glenda the Good Stitch in our newest Sew Along, featured in SewFitAcademyOnline.com.

The Little Black Dress dates back centuries to queen Victoria, when her beloved husband Albert passed away.  She wore black for the remainder of her life.  And of course throughout the centuries, designers like Coco Chanel, Balenciaga, Givenchy, Dior, have designed their own take on this dress.

And as Sarah Jessica Parker, whose fashion choices have been tracked since her "Sex and the City" days, believes so strongly in the little black dress, that she recently launched a collection called SJP LBD at Bloomindale's.  She said, 'We really wanted to make the point that this is for all people at all times of the day.  That's the job of the little black dress."

Glenda the Good Stitch has just launched the Sure-Fit Designs version of the Little Black Dress in her most recent Sew Along, found a SewFitAcademyOnline.com.  Here you'll also see the LBD video highlights describing the details included in the 19-lesson Sew Along.  Just click the previous link.



The details are definitely difficult to see in this photo, so here's another close-up:


When you participate in the Sew Along, you'll receive:
  • 19 highly detailed video lessons
  • How to measure
  • How to draw the blueprint
  • How to design the pattern
  • How to sew it all together
  • Step-by-step detail in Glenda's precise demonstrations
  • 24/7 access to your course 
  • Available for a life-time...no expiration
  • See details for the optional hem flounce
  • See details for the optional designer belt

By enrolling now, you'll receive a 20% discount.  Use this Discount Code lbd20.  It's good until March 12, 2017.  Head over to SewFitAcademyOnline.com to get your Sew Along.


A few facts you (probably) didn't know about the History of the LBD:
  • Coco Cuff// Chanel's little black dress of 1926 actually had white cuffs.
  • La Vie En Noir// A little black dress was Edith Piaf's signature look.  She always chose styles with long sleeves to hide the scars from 3 serious car crashes.
  • Needle-to-Know// In Balenciaga's collections, he included one black dress that he personally made entirely by hand.
  • Slippery Strap// During a 1956 press conference announcing the Marilyn Monroe film ' The Prince and the Showgirl', the strap on her slinky LBD gave way, causing quite a sensation and that incident was subsequently written into the script.
  • Royal Lore// When Lady Diana Spencer wore a tight, strapless black dress fro her first post-engagement appearance with Prince Charles in 1981, the British tabloids responded with 'cleavage' headlines.
  • Breakfast at Tiffany's// And one that you probably already know, Audrey Hepburn, in Breakfast at Tiffany's epitomized the LBD.

Join me now and  receive a 20% discount.  Use this Discount Code lbd20.  It's good through March 12, 2017.  Head over to SewFitAcademyOnline.com to get your Sew Along.

Happy drafting and sewing!

Mar 7, 2017

Sewing for Toddler's, Children & Teens with Sure-Fit Designs

We're generally so busy producing videos for you ladies that we seldom find time for the children.  But finally, this latest video finishes off the video series on the discounted Combos offered by Sure-Fit Designs.
If you sew for your children or grand children, you'll save when you purchase the Children's Kit Combo.  Remember you can sew for both boys and girls and toddlers through teens, when the child matures and grows into the adult patterns.  There's a cross over in size/measurement range between the Children's Kit and the adult pattern Kits so that we can accommodate the best shaping possible for the youngster.

You'll love the variety of different styles you can sew for both boys and girls.  It's kind of like taking the children's section of a pattern catalog and wrapping all the designs into one big package called the Children's Kit.
Now there's a savings combo dedicated just to sewing for children.  It's called the Children's Kit Combo and consists of the following:
  • Children's Kit
  • The Introductory How-To DVD
  • 1x10yd roll of tracing vellum
  • And the essential drawing tool, the Designing Stylus.

Just click on the video link below to see a brief re-cap of all the elements in the Combo.
https://youtu.be/zuf5vVJdSig

Have fun sewing for your kids.
To purchase, please click here - http://www.surefitdesigns.com/Children-s-Kit.html
Here's a sneak peak at so many of the different styles you can sew.












Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!