Oct 28, 2014

Do you have a Crotch Peak?

What in heaven's name is she talking about??

When you're sewing your SFD Pants pattern, when it comes to the front and back crotch curves being joined together, as your measurement increases, you'll often experience a 'flip up' or crotch peak.  It looks like this.

Let's analyze this photo.  You can see that both the Back and Front Crotch Extensions are relatively flat.  But as you look at the pattern pieces being joined together when you match at the inseam, it forces these 'flat' crotch extension points to flip up in a peak.

Why does this happen?  It's because the inseam takes a relatively dramatic curve inward.  Nobody wants the leg of their pants to be baggy and that's why the inseam starts to curve inward.  If you think about it, if you had a right angle (90 degree angle), from Crotch Extension Pt. #2 straight down the inseam, then the crotch wouldn't flip up but the leg would then be really baggy on the inside of your legs.  Because the inseam does curve inward, the more it curves the more dramatic the flip up will be which causes this peak.  This is an anomaly that will happen with any pants pattern, not just Sure-Fit Designs.

If you go ahead and sew it along the 'regular' 5/8" seam lines, this is what it will look like.

 A better way to sew this is to lop off (true) some of this peak.  It would look more like the long dashed lines indicated in the above photo.  Baste first - try on.  Depending on how this looks and feels on your body, you may need to flatten (meaning stitch straight across) rather than in a slight curve.

Here's another example of across to flatten that crotch peak.
 This tends to occur and be more obvious with larger sizes along with a narrowed, tapered inseam.

This issue is actually addressed in the SFD Pants Kit Instruction Book on page 11 where there is an illustration showing you to 'True' from Back to Front as you cross over the inseam.

If this happens to be a situation you've come across, now you know how to deal with it.

Happy Sewing,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

Oct 14, 2014

How to Estimate Fabric Yardage

Many times customers ask, 'How much fabric do I buy for my sewing project?'

(Pickles by Brian Crane)

When you're designing and drawing your own patterns, you (generally) don't have the benefit of the commercial pattern envelop and the fabric requirement chart they give you on the back.

Here is a short video on learning how to decide the amount of yardage to buy for any project.  It's a quick process of laying out the drawn pattern pieces within a defined space and then measuring from start to finish.  Let's see how.

In addition to this process, after doing this a few times, you simply will get to know how much you need.  For instance, I know that for a classic style of dress pants, I need 1.5 yards of 60" wide fabric.  The narrower the fabric, the more I need.  You really will get to know this information.

Additionally, if you look in your stash of commercial patterns, you'll often find a similar style.  You can read the estimates they provide.

Or when you're at the fabric store, take a quick flip through the pattern catalogues, I'm, sure you'll find some pattern style close to what you've drawn.  Just look at what they suggest.

To help you even further, I've put together a quick Fabric Yardage requirement Cheat Sheet.  It looks like this and can be downloaded from FREE STUFF in the SFD Learning Center.  Just click here.

This cheat sheet will give you a number of general categories of garments, like Blouse with long sleeve, Blouse with short sleeve, Camisole or sleeveless top etc.  Please take a few minutes to go grab your copy.  It's great to fold up and tuck in your purse.  You just never know when you'll have fabric jump out and say 'buy me!'

And when all else fails, think '2 1/2 yards (2.3 m)'.  That's generally safe for many projects.  In fact, it's likely a little on the too-much side, but better safe than sorry.

Glenda...the Good Stitch!