Jun 30, 2015

Video Tutorial: Perfecting the Bust Dart Extension Point

Make sure to watch this short video to discover how to 'perfect' the dart extension point. There's a quick little secret showing how easy it is to take your one-dimensional pattern and fold the dart thereby creating a three-dimensional form.

The cut edge of the dart extension point will lay flat when it's sewn.  It will be straight and exactly aligned with the side seam cut edge and it will sew perfectly together with the side seam of the back bodice.  All of this means that you won't be pulling the dart extension to fit in with the back side seam, which ultimately means that you eliminate the possible fold under the dart which can be mistaken for a fitting issue.  I know when you watch the video that my comments will all make sense.

Happy Sewing and Fitting

Glenda...the Good Stitch!

PS - I just learned how to share my YouTube postings directly into this blog after I've uploaded a video to my YouTube channel...how cool is that!

Jun 23, 2015

SFD Super Index by Sara Gray

Some of you may remember Sara Gray (www.sewtogether.net) indexed the entire SFD fitting system and resources about 2 years ago. And of course, when we released the 2015 versions of each of the kits and instruction books, I asked Sara if she would be able to update the Super Index for you.

Sara very recently, found time amongst her many other business projects to do this for all of you.  She has once again used a spreadsheet (Excel), categorized, labeled and numbered every little piece of information and the design instructions found within the new SFD kits and books.  The front cover (Page 1) still looks similar, though one more useful EASE KEY has been added.  All you need to do is click here - http://www.sfdlearningcenter.com/FreeStuff.html to obtain the latest version of the SFD Super Index.  Just scroll down the page and you'll find both the 'old' as well as current Super Index.  The original index has been left on the website for the benefit of all our customers prior to March 2015 when the latest editions were released.

Here's what the new looks like:

For those of you reading this blog for the first time, who perhaps don't yet have this valuable SFD resource, this is just like trying to find a recipe.  You want Potato Salad - you go to the index and look up 'Salads' then follow alphabetically until you get to the 'P's'.  Your cook book either has a recipe for Potato Salad or not.

It's basically the same with the SFD Super Index (Sara's great name).  As an example: if you want to design and sew Yoga pants, you go to the general category 'Pants' then go alphabetically to 'Yoga'.  the Index tells you what resource to look in - in this case you'd go to the designing book - Pants that Mix n Multiply page 14.  If you want information on adding pleats to a skirt, go to 'Skirts', then to 'Pleated' and you'll see all the options available.

So here it is again and well worth your time to download this Index.  This really is a fabulous resource that is completely indexed and categorized for your easy reference.  There's a Color Key, Source Key, Info Key and now Ease Key, which Sara explains on page 1.

So if you haven't already downloaded your complimentary copy, just go to Free Stuff in the Learning Center and scroll on down to get your Super Index.  It will take the guesswork out of trying to find something you may just be looking for.

As my way of thanking Sara for her much-appreciated effort, I'd like to let you know about her newest available sewing project - the Tablet Prop-or-Go Pack-Prop-Protect project, which I believe is now a Craftsy project.  Please click here for the direct link to her Craftsy class.

P.S.  And while your at it, if you feel so inclined, take a moment to send Sara an email thanking her for diligence in producing this index and in sharing it with you. sara@sewtogether.net

Glenda...the Good Stitch!

Jun 16, 2015

A shaped Back Shoulder Yoke

Vest Success continued...
In early April, I published a blog called Vest Success.  One of our SFD ladies designed the Reversible Vest (a relatively new SFD downloadable Fashion Leaflet).  This particular lady had a back shoulder dart that she needed to deal with.  She needed the back shoulder dart for her slightly rounded shoulder blades, but didn't want the dart appearing in her vest.  When drawing the vest pattern, she simply transferred this dart into the armscye and the resulting slightly curved seam took care of the dart and she ended up with a yoke detail in the back of her vest.

Because her photos were somewhat dark, I simply outlined the stitching lines that she designed.  Now you can see where the back yoke is.

Not long after this blog was published, another SFD lady asked if I would show you the details for turning the back shoulder dart into a yoke with slightly curved stitching line.  The easiest way for me to do this was to film a short video showing you the process.

First, let's review how to add a back shoulder dart.
Step 1: Draw line A to B as illustrated.  This line should be at a level where the most rounding or protruding fullness is on your back/shoulder blades.  Then draw line C to D as shown.  This line does not have to be at a right angle to A-B, but the angle that you choose will affect the final position of the dart, therefore, it should be at a pleasing angle for your specific body shape.  You may need to sew a couple of tests to make sure you're pleased with the results.
Step 2: Cut from A to B and from C to D, leaving a paper hinge at the armscye point B and at point D on line A-B.
Step 3: Spread the shoulder area of the pattern open as shown always maintaining the paper hinge points.  This will open up a small dart shape in the shoulder seam line and will automatically lengthen CB.  Often people with rounded, protruding shoulder blades also have some rounding at the upper back and this extra length will help the bodice back to sit more comfortably.  Additionally, depending on how rounded your entire back is, you may also want to add a CB seam which is shaped/curved to suit your body contours.

Step 4: The more you open/lengthen CB that results in a wider dart, the more the upper and lower center back line becomes 'jogged'.  To maintain CB on the fold of the fabric, simply draw/true a new CB from the back neck point to the waist point.  Also re-establish a parallel straight of grain marking.  Depending on how accurately you measured your CB waist length and where this length is actually needed, you may now need to shorten CB at the waist edge and gently true from CB to the side seam.
Step 5:  This technique for adding a shoulder dart shouldn't distort the armscye significantly.  However, if the armscye appears to angled at the armscye hinge pivot point, make sure to blend/true to create a smooth curve.
This is what it looks like in 'real life'.

Now, on to changing this back shoulder dart into a back shoulder yoke that is slightly curved.  It really is a simple process.  Please watch this video to see how to accomplish this technique.

Just click on the forward arrow to begin play.  It's a short video and a simple process.  I know you'll find it easy to do.

Glenda...the Good Stitch!

Jun 9, 2015

Fit & Sew Retreat...Another successful event!

May 31 - June 5 saw another successful Fit & Sew Retreat come and go. The 6 days absolutely flew by.  A lot of fitting and sewing occurs.  A lot of learning experiences transpire.
This time, ladies were mostly Oregonians from eastern and central Oregon, and one more from Wisconsin.  All were a delight to have in class.

You may enjoy seeing a photo journey of their 6 days.  Here are the highlights:

Come 4 o'clock on Friday afternoon, we were all pretty tired, but positive results were had by all.
Thanks once again for attending, ladies.  It was a pleasure to have each and every one of you.

Glenda...the Good Stitch!

Jun 2, 2015

Double Back Darts

This topic of double darts at the pants waist edge is well worth repeating.  I just had to show you another example of how adding a second dart at the waist line of your pants pattern can really improve the fit.

If you go from a relatively small waist to quite full high hips, I highly recommend adding a second dart to the waist edge of your pants pattern.

This lady attended one of my recent Fit & Sew Retreats.  She has a pretty dominant swayed, dipped center back (at the waist edge), quite full low hip measurement and thin legs.

Here's the result:

She's always had difficulty getting any pants (or skirt for that matter) to fit.  That's why she attended the Retreat.

Keeping in mind these are test pants, where every wrinkle and nuance shows, you're seeing a near to perfect fit at the waist and in the hips and a beautiful hang on the leg.  From a side view you're seeing a perfectly straight side seam.  CF needed to be raised slightly, but that was refined in the tune-ups.

In the above close-up, you're seeing the position of the 2 waist-fitting darts.  They shape her hip shape well.

She did a great job of drafting her pattern and the results as so worth her effort.  Well done...and great fit!

To see how to add this second waist-fitting dart, please watch this short video tutorial.

For any of you ladies who might fall into this category, you'll want to give this a try.

Glenda...the Good Stitch!