Jun 2, 2015

Double Back Darts

This topic of double darts at the pants waist edge is well worth repeating.  I just had to show you another example of how adding a second dart at the waist line of your pants pattern can really improve the fit.

If you go from a relatively small waist to quite full high hips, I highly recommend adding a second dart to the waist edge of your pants pattern.

This lady attended one of my recent Fit & Sew Retreats.  She has a pretty dominant swayed, dipped center back (at the waist edge), quite full low hip measurement and thin legs.

Here's the result:

She's always had difficulty getting any pants (or skirt for that matter) to fit.  That's why she attended the Retreat.

Keeping in mind these are test pants, where every wrinkle and nuance shows, you're seeing a near to perfect fit at the waist and in the hips and a beautiful hang on the leg.  From a side view you're seeing a perfectly straight side seam.  CF needed to be raised slightly, but that was refined in the tune-ups.

In the above close-up, you're seeing the position of the 2 waist-fitting darts.  They shape her hip shape well.

She did a great job of drafting her pattern and the results as so worth her effort.  Well done...and great fit!

To see how to add this second waist-fitting dart, please watch this short video tutorial.

For any of you ladies who might fall into this category, you'll want to give this a try.

Glenda...the Good Stitch!


  1. Thanks for posting this. I've struggled with fitting pants properly because of this high hip problem. I will try this. When I saw the photo of the woman, I said to myself, OMG-that looks like me!

    1. Hi Robin, Thanks for the comment. I'm happy to hear this info was of benefit to you. This process works beautifully.
      Glenda the Good Stitch!

  2. The hips info sure helps but what could be done about having a different leg shape? Looking at the side view, the legs look big. Is it possible to get a slimmer leg with the small waist high hip adjustment?

  3. Yes, you can narrow the leg or add a princess seam done the back and shape the leg thereby narrowing it. There are videos in the SFD Learning Center to do both - see- http://www.sfdlearningcenter.com/Pants-Videos-RefiningFit.html