Oct 28, 2014

Do you have a Crotch Peak?

What in heaven's name is she talking about??

When you're sewing your SFD Pants pattern, when it comes to the front and back crotch curves being joined together, as your measurement increases, you'll often experience a 'flip up' or crotch peak.  It looks like this.


Let's analyze this photo.  You can see that both the Back and Front Crotch Extensions are relatively flat.  But as you look at the pattern pieces being joined together when you match at the inseam, it forces these 'flat' crotch extension points to flip up in a peak.

Why does this happen?  It's because the inseam takes a relatively dramatic curve inward.  Nobody wants the leg of their pants to be baggy and that's why the inseam starts to curve inward.  If you think about it, if you had a right angle (90 degree angle), from Crotch Extension Pt. #2 straight down the inseam, then the crotch wouldn't flip up but the leg would then be really baggy on the inside of your legs.  Because the inseam does curve inward, the more it curves the more dramatic the flip up will be which causes this peak.  This is an anomaly that will happen with any pants pattern, not just Sure-Fit Designs.

If you go ahead and sew it along the 'regular' 5/8" seam lines, this is what it will look like.

 A better way to sew this is to lop off (true) some of this peak.  It would look more like the long dashed lines indicated in the above photo.  Baste first - try on.  Depending on how this looks and feels on your body, you may need to flatten (meaning stitch straight across) rather than in a slight curve.

Here's another example of across to flatten that crotch peak.
 This tends to occur and be more obvious with larger sizes along with a narrowed, tapered inseam.

This issue is actually addressed in the SFD Pants Kit Instruction Book on page 11 where there is an illustration showing you to 'True' from Back to Front as you cross over the inseam.







If this happens to be a situation you've come across, now you know how to deal with it.

Happy Sewing,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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