December '12 SFD Sale

Have you had at least 3 or 4 'wadders' in your sewing career?  What's a 'wadder' you ask?  I know you all know...it's the project that ended wadded up and in the trash can.  Of course, this can happen for any variety of reasons - it didn't fit, you didn't like the fabric when you thought it would be perfect, sewing construction 'oopses' happened that were not correctable.  The one I hear the most - 'it didn't fit'!

By the time you've bought the pattern, which we all know can range from very little up to the $20+ range, and bought the fabric, anywhere from $5 to $15 per yard or more, and of course all the accessories you need to complete the garment, it doesn't take long if you have 3 or 4 wadders to realize that you now covered the cost of some Sure-Fit Designs kits.

It's not frequently that I put any of the SFD kits or Designing Stylus 'On Sale', but for one week only, December 4-11, 2012, you can purchase that long-desired Dress or Pants kit and/or the Designing Stylus at a savings.

This photo shows you the patterns, templates and instruction book found in the Dress Kit.  It's regularly $41.95, but now on sale for $35.95 (+S&H).  Enter Coupon Code SFDSale after you've put the item in the Shopping Cart. Click Here.

The SFD ladies Pants Kit contains the necessary master patterns - Pant Front & Back, Waistband, Patch Pocket, Inseam Pocket, Zipper Fly Front Extension and Zipper Guard - and the Pants Kit Instruction Book (28 pages).  It's regularly $34.95, now on sale for $29.95 (+S&H).  Click Here.  Enter Coupon Code SFDSale after you've put the item in the Shopping Cart.


If you need a Designing Stylus, they are on sale too.  Most of you know that the Designing Stylus is the Key to the System and is required for drawing off your body blueprint from the Master Patterns.  One Designing Stylus does it all - use it for all 4 of the SFD pattern kits.
It's regularly $18.95...now you can pick one up for $16.95 (+S&H).  Click Here Enter Coupon Code SFDSale after you've put the item in the Shopping Cart.

This (rare) sale ends December 11, 2012 , so order now.

Can't See the Dots?

Once of my SFD customers passed on a great tip.  She was having trouble distinguishing the measurement dots.  I know some of them are pretty close together (LOL).  She suggested using the smallest removable paper dot to identify her measurement numbers.  

Amazon carries these 1/8" (about 3mm) wide dots.  And perhaps your local office supply store does too.  It's a good way to make sure you're using the right measurement dot.   And since they come in various colors, if you were drawing the body blueprint for more than one size, you could color code where the dots are to be traced.

Then when you put the tracing vellum over top of your master pattern, they are totally clear and easy to find and the pencil dot should be easier to initially see.  When your done, the dots are easily removed.

Great suggestion Susie...Thank you!

If you have any other tips or techniques you use when drawing your Sure-Fit Designs master patterns, please comment.

Help! My Pattern Doesn't Fit

I don’t hear this comment very often, but when I get emails or phone calls and someone says ‘My pattern’s skin tight’ or ‘My pattern is too big’, it always is important to first check that you’ve drawn your pattern correctly.  And it’s not just drawing the pattern according to the simple SFD steps, but also that you’ve added seam allowances and cut and sewn the garment all accurately.

Here is a check list of variables that you need to check first because discrepancies with any of these can change the result of the final fit.  And if you prefer to watch the video where you can see what I'm talking about, just click on the forward arrow.

1. Measuring.  Have you measured accurately?  Taking accurate measurements is always the underpinnings to getting a pattern fit to your body needs.
2. Marking pattern dots.  Have you marked your appropriate measurement dots accurately?  Make sure to use a fine/medium tipped pencil when transferring the master pattern measurement dots on to your tracing vellum.
3. Check drawn pattern widths.  Double check the widths of the resulting pattern before adding seam allowances.  Measure the pattern from stitching line to stitching line, adding any relevant segments together.  Make sure to account for the total circumference.  Compare the measurement that the pattern is giving to your actual measurement.  Remember that wearing ease is included in the master pattern.  Check the specific instruction book for ease in the pattern you are drawing.
4. Accurate seam allowances.  Are the seam allowances 5/8” (1.6cm) wide?  With the Designing Stylus, use the edge of the seam allowance slot that is nearest the outside edge of the Stylus to draw the allowance.  Spot check for accuracy.
5. Cut with care.  Whether using a rotary cutter or fabric shears, cut carefully maintaining the 5/8” (1.6cm) seam allowance.
6. Stitch accurately.  Is the stitched seam allowance exactly 5/8” (1.6cm) wide?  If you need to, place a piece of visible tape on the throat plate 5/8” (1.6cm) away from the needle.
7. Personal ease preferences.  Know how you like your clothes to fit.  The Dress Kit skirt pattern gives 3” (7.6cm) ease in the hip, while the pants pattern gives 2” (5.1cm) hip ease.  Some may find these ease allotments too little or too much.  It’s all a matter of personal preference.

When you change any of these variables, your resulting fit will naturally vary.  Please be aware of these aspects so that when you evaluate the fit of your test garment, these elements will no longer be causing any issues.

What to do? Short Front with Long Back Crotch

I've had a number of ladies in my SFD Pants fitting classes, who have a short front crotch with quite a long back crotch.  It could be due to your body stance or just basically your anatomy - the way you are.  And I've had ladies email with similar situations.

If this happens to be your situation, please make sure you watch this video.  It shows you exactly how to deal with your SFD Pants pattern.

Short Front Crotch in relation to a substantially Long Back Crotch

Large Upper Arm? Let's make the fix EASY!

There's  a lot of you out there with a large upper arm - a bicep that is fuller than many patterns provide for.  And I'm sure you've tried many different variations of how to enlarge the sleeve pattern to fit your larger upper arm.

Often when you widen the underarm, it automatically reduces the sleeve cap height.  Not good!  This just then binds on the top of your shoulder.  Typically, you need to widen the sleeve and maintain the cap height.  And after the frustrating fixes of slashing and spreading the pattern, this easy technique you'll find with Sure-Fit Designs, adds the width you need and usually you don't do anything with the cap height.  Just make sure you've measured the new back and front sleeve cap lengths and compare them to the current armscye lengths.  The back sleeve cap should have about 5/8" ease and the front should have about 1/2" ease.

If you add more than about 1" total width to the underarm width, you'll likely need to widen and/or widen and drop the bodice underarm point to accommodate this larger sleeve.

Take a look at this video to see how easy Sure-Fit Designs deals with this issue.

I Couldn't Believe My Eyes - Harem Pants!

The other day I was in my local Jo Ann fabric store, picking up fabric to go with my new paisley leggings.  I'm not sure what really possessed me, but I was flipping through pattern catalogues.  I guess I was checking current design ideas that could be easily drawn and sewn from your Sure-Fit Designs pattern kits.  And what did I see - Harem Pants!!!!  Oh my gosh!

This was in a Burda pattern book - pattern # 7677.  I looked at this and couldn't believe my eyes.  I designed what I called Harem Pants some time back in the early 90's.  Whether you have the older Pants Kit or newer SFD Pants Kit version, somewhere in there, you will find directions for designing Harem Pants from your SFD Pants pattern.  In the current Pants Instruction book, you will find these directions on page 21.

Here's the Burda pattern and it's also shown on a couple of models:

Now... here is the artwork for the SFD Harem pants.  This sure looks pretty similar to my eyes.  And it's all yours in your existing SFD Pants Kit.
Not only does Sure-Fit Designs offer this style, but you want to talk comfortable??  This style is so incredibly comfortable on so many different body shapes.

Here's our model, Cindy, showing you the Harem pants in action!

Do you remember a blog that I wrote a while back, called 'Everything Old is New Again'?  Well, here's another example of a current Burda fashion style...and you can smugly say...I already have that with my Sure-Fit Designs Pants Kit.

Enjoy,

Glenda

Creating a Thread Belt Loop

In Sew Sensational Shirts - Style #3: the Asymmetrical Wrap Blouse - I made a thread belt loop to hold the belt in place.

Here's the very easy way to make them.  Once you get the hang of it, you can do this in less than 5 minutes.  Give it a try!

What's wrong with this picture?

Glenda...pants...fit.....HELP!

Becca sent me this photo.  Don't you just all too often see both sexes in ill-fitting jeans.  For the teenagers it may be a fashion statement...if you can call it 'Fashion'!  They walk around with the pants crotch hanging somewhere between their real crotch and their knees...and you wonder how they can take any kind of a walking stride.

Thank goodness that with the Sure-Fit Designs Pants Pattern, that after you've established your body blueprint (your pants sloper), you can design well-fitting jeans.  Instructions to do this are on page 22 & 23 of the SFD Pants Kit Instruction Book.

Here's Joy (Joyful Expressions) in one of her SFD jeans.

How Much Fabric Should I Buy?

When you begin designing/drawing your own patterns, after the pattern is drawn, I often get asked 'How much fabric should I buy?'  As you know, with Sure-Fit Designs, you're not working with a traditional pattern, where the envelop tells you how much yardage you'll need for your size.

Estimating your fabric yardage requirement is actually pretty easy.  I'd like to share with you some guidelines that I know will help you.

1.  If the design you are going to sew is similar to one of your existing commercial patterns (you've all got mountains of old commercial patterns in your stash), simply use their recommendations as a guideline.

2.  Do a mock-up of a layout.  Once your pattern pieces are all drawn, simply mark off a width (on your cutting/sewing table) that is half the width of the fabric.  Many fabrics are 58" to 60" wide, so half this amount would be 29" to 30" wide.  Mark one edge as the "Fold' and one as the 'Selvage'.  Then begin laying down your prepared pattern pieces.  Many of you are so familiar with doing layouts that this will come second nature to you.  Those pieces that are on the fold, will be placed first, and then you will fit in the other pieces.  When you're done, measure from one end to the other - and that's how much you need.   You might want to purchase another 1/2 yd. for safety. There is a clear illustration on page 13 of the Sure-Fit Designs Dress Instruction book on how to do this.

3. Your height and girth will play a role in your requirements, but after you've done this process a few times, you'll get to know how much you need.  As an example, you'll start to remember you need 1.5 yards of 60" wide fabric for pants or 1 3/4yd. for a long sleeve blouse.  Make a little note and tuck it in your handbag.

4.  And when all else fails, you can generally buy 2 1/2 yards and get many different designs from this quantity.  You really will start to understand your needs.

Kindly,
Glenda

LEGGINGS...Sizzling...Comfy...Fit...Fashionable!

Are leggings for you?  They were in vogue in the 60's and very trendy in the 80's and now they're ubiquitous once again.

Olivia and John (Olivia Newton-John and John Travolta) got physical in Flash Dance.  And, everybody, particularly the younger generation wore leggings.  As trends always do, they disappeared, tucked away in some dark fashion cupboard only to re-emerge as the century rolled over.  Now, everyone is wearing them and they've once again become a wardrobe staple.

Are leggings for you?  If you wore them then, do you remember how comfortable they were?  That's of course, if they fit you properly.  Now when you use your Sure-Fit Designs Pants patterns as a base, you'll end up with the fit designed for your body shape.

So, are leggings right for you?  They can be worn for so many different occasions.  I've made some snazzy black/gold paisley leggings and teamed them up with a gold lame knit cowl neck blouse and the diagonal hemmed cardigan (both from Beyond Bodice Basics). 

Or you could team them up with the Crossover Shoulder T-Shirt from Sew Sensational Shirts to create a much more casual look.

Or, have them look more like tight pants with a flared hem.  These ones are shown with the Asymmetrical Wrap Blouse also from Sew Sensational Shirts

These new instructions for Leggings by Sure-Fit Designs give all kinds of details for working with two-way versus one-way stretch knit fabric and gives detailed sewing construction steps.

Watch this short video, then hop on over to the SFDLearningCenter Store to get your copy of these instructions.

And how to accessorize?  My suggestion is to generally have layers of tops and have at least one of those items be as long (or longer) than your low hip level.

Wear them for dress-up, casual, day wear or gym wear and don't forget those heavier leggings to warm you in the winter.

Enjoy...
Glenda