May 7, 2013

Adding a Dart to the SFD Shirt Kit pattern

If you read last week's blog, you'll have seen Joy's (Joyful Expressions) version of the Shawl Collar design incorporated into the SFD Shirt Kit pattern.  And if you did, you'll remember that Joy added a bust-fitting dart to her Shirt front pattern.

Many of you know that the Shirt Kit does not have a bust fitting dart...and many of you know what that means.  If you have a fairly full bust, the front of any pattern will hike up since there simply isn't enough shaping of the fabric to conform to your curves.  And even though the Shirt Kit front and back pattern together has about 5" - 6" total chest circumference ease, when your bust is much bigger than a B-cup dart, the front will likely hike up.
This photo is a good example of moderate hiking up in the front.

If this is a situation that happens with you when you wear dartless garments, here is a video showing you how to use the SFD Adjust-A-Bust template to add a dart to the Shirt Front pattern.
I may be modifying this video slightly, but for the time being, this process will help you to achieve the bust shape you need.


  1. I don't have the Shirt kit yet, but have a question about the additional length added at the side seam due to the dart. I believe I read/viewed somewhere that the seam allowances are included on the Shirt pattern, so I assume that when measuring the dart take up, you should measure at the seam line, not the cutting line? If the dart is large, I would think there would be a depth difference in between the seam line and cutting line. Thanks!

  2. Yes, you should do this on the seam line, not the cutting line. That would need to be taken into consideration with the Shirt kit as it does come with s.a.'s in place.

  3. I will definitely be trying this, when I get to my blouse kit. Thanks! Your videos are great, I'm working though my dress kit now, and have had no trouble understanding what to do.

  4. Denise, I'm glad to hear the videos are beneficial and that you are understanding everything as you go along. Good work! Kindly, Glenda