Now it's time to discuss other areas of rounding in our backs. Depending on the shape of your back, how erect you are - how curved you are - how prominent your back shoulder blades are, you may need a shoulder dart. Sometimes it doesn't always appear that obvious when looking at your back...not that you generally look at your back unless you've got a 3-way mirror...and then again, sometimes it is more obvious.
In taking a look at this photo, you'll see diagonal folds in the back bodice going from the underarm up toward the shoulder blades. This is saying that she's rounded across her upper back and that back shoulder darts would help to eliminate them.
Here is what the bodice back looks like with the simple addition of a shoulder dart.
There is a marked improvement in the back fit. It still might be a little too wide under the arms, but remember that some of this is necessary wearing ease. If you remove it all, you've now got a moulage and won't be able to move in it. This center back seam is there for final fitting refinements and so it could be curved slightly, but in this sample bodice that CB seam is perfectly straight.
Here's what a pattern looks like during the process of adding the shoulder dart.
For complete step-by-step instructions to add the shoulder dart, click on this link - Adding A Shoulder Dart.
And for those of you who prefer to watch this process, here is the detailed video:
Thank you Glenda for showing this, it is one of the remedies you suggested for my bodice fitting.
ReplyDeleteHi Barb, You are most welcome. You can see how well this works. Kindly, Glenda
ReplyDeleteGlenda,
ReplyDeleteThat is right where my drag lines are and they have been driving me crazy trying to get rid of them! I'm going to try this tip next! I hate to cut into my muslin(again!) but I think this is just what I need.
Thanks for all the info you put out , it really helps!
Wendy
Hi Wendy, I'm sure this will help. Sometimes you can have slightly rounded back and not really notice it on your body, until you see that the fabric isn't hanging as smoothly as you'd like it to.
ReplyDeleteKindly,
Glenda
Gracias por.favor.en.espanol para entender
ReplyDeleteSi la tela crea ese tipo de pliegues en la espalda como ves en la foto, tienes que poner dardos en el medio de tus hombros para quitar los pliegues. En la foto de después puedes ver que está mucho mejor, solo que hay demasiado tela debajo de los brazos. Pero para mover y respirar, es preferible mantenerlo que quitarlo todo.
DeleteThanks for your tips help a lots
ReplyDelete