This week, I'd like to show you how easy it is to shape that princess seam and nip it in at your midriff and waistline. It really is just a matter of stitching on either side of the waist-fitting dart, but for whatever reason, sometimes this is a difficult concept to grasp.
First, let's take a look at this photo. You'll see the princess line bodice comes in fairly close to the mannequin's waist circumference.
Next, I'll show you how to draw the princess line that comes from the armscye but it bisects the bust dart. You actually end up with a short remainder of bust dart aiming to your apex. Now, what's interesting about this design is that it really does nothing for waist shaping. You'll see by the photos that the waist tends to stand away from the mannequin. This is because that's the waist-fitting dart (space) and nothing has been done with it. Yes, you can stitch this as a shaped dart. It all depends on the finished look you'd like to have.
Here's the video explaining this process.
Now, last but certainly not least, is what to do with the back bodice and how to create the princess line back there. Again, some get stumped when there isn't a bust fitting dart that is used for the princess line. Basically, it's simply a matter of drawing the design line where you want it, slashing and spreading the pattern and adding seam allowances. But you can slash down through the center of the back waist-fitting dart and then up to the shoulder or armscye. And if you have a shoulder dart, then you'd cut on either side of the dart, which when your seam allowances are added, you incorporate the shoulder blade shaping.
Here's the short video on designing the princess line in the bodice back, but you'll need to click on this link - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EZGOT4tLtc
For whatever reason, Blogger isn't letting me actually find this video to paste in this blog. Fortunately, it's easy enough for you to click on the link. It's well worth watching if you've ever been a little shy of designing the princess line in the bodice back.
In addition to these videos, don't forget you can find the written general instructions for princess line designing on page 32 of the Dress Kit Instruction Book.
Don't be timid...have fun...and have a go!
Glenda...the Good Stitch!