Nov 4, 2014

Squishy, Spongy, Stretchy!

Topstitching a fabric that is squishy, spongy and stretchy is no fun!  And on top of that, the fabric I was using was a leather-like stretch, which meant once the needle pierced the fabric, it left distinctive holes.  And on top of this, the fabric would not press flat, which made it very difficult when turning and pressing seams.  No second chances on this project!

Here's what the finished jacket looks like.



It's a Sure-Fit Designs knock-off of a jacket I saw in NYC.  Exposed zippers are ever so popular.
Mine of course, being all black, doesn't have quite the bizazz appeal like the black & white ready-to-wear, but it's still a stunning jacket.  And the SFD version does have a shoulder yoke - just not as deep in toward the armscye area.

This blog is going to focus only on the topstitching process and tips that I'd like to share with you if you ever come across this type of situation.  Since I knew I had one chance only to get it right, meaning evenly spaced, straight, no skipped stitches and no puckers, testing prior to the final topstitching was definitely required.

Yup!  This fabric is great to look at, but it sure did have it's challenges.  It just simply wouldn't feed well when the leathery side is face up.  I'd purchased both a solid black as well as a perforated patterned piece.  I got them both in the Stretch House during my NYC excursion.

I combined both these fabrics in this jacket.  With a traditional seam, if right sides were being sewn together, it wasn't a problem, but if you needed to topstitch...well - watch out!  It has kind of a leather-like look and a little bit of a sticky feel.

The feed dogs didn't like it.  The walking foot didn't help feed the under and upper layers equally.  Perhaps a roller foot would have worked, but since I didn't have that machine attachment another solution needed to be found.

After much testing, I settled on a paper-like tear-away stabilizer.  I had 3 different ones to test and ended up using this Sulky Tear-Away.  It's years old and I'm sure the price is more than  $1.99 now, but for this project, it worked the best.
What did I test before sewing the one and only chance I was going to get?
First, I recreated a seam scenario as close to what the finished jacket had - meaning the solid black fabric was on the underside of the lapel.  The perforated fabric was on the top side.
Then I tested:
  • the best needle choice to prevent skipped stitches.  Of course, new is always preferable.
  • stitch length - what would look the best on the finished edge.
  • which stabilizer tore away the easiest without too much pulling and stress on the stitches.

This is just a photo of the test sample.  I did about 3 different swatches.

































After choosing the most appropriate stitch length, best needle and stabilizer, I prepared the stabilizer.  It had to be cut in the exact shape of the neck line curve so that I could lay it in place and see the folded edge of the seam.  I used the pattern's neck edge for this.




Then I took a deep breath, centered my thoughts and began topstitching.  Remember, I had only one chance at this - this fabric was so unforgiving that I couldn't pick it out if I happened to sew crooked.


Here's a close-up of the stitching before the stabilizer was torn away.


Next came tearing the stabilizer away.  Even this needed to be done with control - one side at a time for both the upper and under layers.



When it was all said and done, I was quite happy with the results, but I'd been agonizing over this final process for the last few days, knowing that it was one chance or the whole thing would be ruined.

Here's a close-up.




I am happy with the results.  Feel free to comment or add your opinions of how you would have tackled a similar challenge.  Also, watch for a new downloadable Fashion Leaflet describing how to modify your SFD bodice blueprint to achieve this jacket.  I hope to have that available for your soon.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

P.S. Although this next jacket isn't quite the same (nor is it a Sure-Fit Designs jacket), when I saw it on Imogene Lamport from Inside Out Style - I thought it was so similar in design with the exposed zipper offset on one side, that I wanted to show it to you.  And what a difference it makes to sew it in white for a summery look...also notice the shorter hip length...more like the NYC jacket in white and black.
 

9 comments:

  1. Looks great, Glenda! Know just what you are talking about with the slightly sticky fabric and only having one chance to do it right. Look forward to your Jacket Fashion Leaflet, too.

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  2. Thanks for posting how you handled the "sticky situation.." I think this is one of the things I love best about sewing -the finding a solution that works to create a nice piece of work. I too, look forward to the leaflet for the jacket.

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    1. Sticky is another excellent adjective to describe this fabric! I could have called this blog ' Sticky, Squishy, Spongy, Stretchy'. All describe it perfectly.

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  3. What a beautiful Jacket. You sure did a great job on stitching it! I don't think I would attempt sewing it in fabric that difficult with my sewing ability. Can you suggest some other fabrics that might give a smilar look that would be a little more forgiving? Looking forward to the leaflet!

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    1. Hi Sandy,
      This would likely work well out of a cotton chintz, though I have to admit I haven't seen any cotton chintz around in a while, but then again, I haven't looked for any either. A few years ago I sewed a short bomber-style jacket with some black chintz and it was MUCH easier to sew on. It might be fun to try it out of a non-stretch denim which would offer a much more casual look. You want to pick something that has a fairly close weave. Because of all the design lines, you don't want the fabric stretching/giving while you sew it.
      Kindly,
      Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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  4. For what it's worth, I think your jacket looks nicer than the RTW original - the contrasting fabric does nothing for me. I like exposed zippers in moderation, and it works well on a style like this. Although it's my goal never to work with such an unforgiving fabric, I'll certainly keep your technique in my bag of tricks. No wonder you were nervous! I'd call it a five star success...

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    1. Denise -thanks for your opinion on the white/black v.s. black/black version. I liked the finished result, but it was my hubby who kept saying mine wasn't dramatic enough. Goes to show you what he knows - ha ha!
      I'd certainly use the shaped paper stabilizer technique on other hard-to-behave fabrics. It actually did work well.
      Kindly,
      Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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  5. What an absolutely wonderful result, Glenda! It suits you to a T.
    Re the rtw jacket- it'll have its day fashion-wise, but yours will be able to be worn for longer I'm sure.

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    1. I love wearing this jacket. And I agree with you, the black/white will become dated much quicker than my basic black. Thanks for your comment.
      Kindly,
      Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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