May 10, 2016

Peter Pan Collar Application

Collars are often a prominent focal point in a blouse, dress or jacket.  To avoid that 'home-made' look, there are some internal steps that should be completed to avoid curled edges and a collar, particularly a Peter Pan collar, that won't otherwise lay flat.  Cutting the upper collar a hair wider than the under collar, interfacing the under collar, clipping and notching the seams, all play an important roll in a professional result.

Step 1:
Staystitch neck edge of bodice before attaching collar.

Step 2:
Cut upper and under collar pieces.  The upper collar needs to be slightly larger (1/8") than the under collar to ensure that it rolls correctly.  Heavy fabric may need more than 1/8" ease.

Step 3:
Cut one pattern piece of iron on interfacing using the under collar pattern.  Do not include seam allowances on the interfacing.

Step 4:
Apply interfacing to the wrong side of the under collar.

Step 5:
Since the upper collar is slightly larger, pin upper collar to under collar, easing the upper collar slightly around the outer edge.  This will allow the upper collar piece to roll smoothly.

Step 6:
With right sides together, stitch upper collar to under collar leaving the inner neck edge open.  Stitch from center out to front, first on one side, then on the other.  This prevents the ease from shifting.

Step 7:
To encourage the edge of the collar to lay flat, trim the under collar seam to 1/4" and the upper collar seam to 3/8". 

Step 8:
Around the outside curve, snip the edges every 1/4".  Turn right side out and press, slightly rolling the upper collar seam to the underside about 1/16".  This way it will not be visible on the  outside edge.

Step 9:
Baste raw edges together on inner edge. If desired edge stitching or top stitching can be done at this time-before attaching to garment.   

Step 10:
Pin collar to neck edge right sides together matching centers and notch3es.  Attach by sewing from center back toward the front.  First one side, then the other.

Happy Sewing!

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