Oct 4, 2016

Forward Thrusted Shoulder

If your blouses, tops and dresses typically ride back on your body and tend to choke you at the front neck, it's very possible that you'll need a forward thrusted shoulder tune-up.  It's generally quite easy to tell if you'll need to make this adjustment.
With your test bodice on, look at where the shoulder seam is sitting in relation to the top of your shoulder.  Does it look like it's riding too far back?  When you look at the shoulder seam, if you were to drop a tape measure down your arm, does it look like you're dividing your arm in half?
In this photo, you'll see a forward adjusted shoulder seam.  Where the tape measure is hanging is now dividing her arm basically in half.


Now, let's take a little closer look at where the original shoulder seam stitching line was.  Notice the red dotted line?  That's the original shoulder stitching line.  Notice that in blue, I've indicated that it is riding too far back on her shoulder.  If you follow the red line going downward, you'll see that it is not dividing her arm in half.


In this next photo, I've emphasized the new shoulder seam line which has been moved forward about 5/8".


When you make this change on your pattern, you also need to consider the effect on the sleeve cap notch.  It too needs to be moved forward the same amount.  To make this adjustment, you can see the V-shaped slash line on the pattern.  The center where the 'V' meets is the pivot point.  The front of the cap is overlapped and the back of the cap opens up the same amount that you moved the shoulder point forward.




The blue notch marks indicate where the sleeve cap notch has been repositioned.  The red line indicates the corrected straight of grain.  (This process of re-positioning the sleeve cap notch is shared by Louise Cutting in How to Fit a Changing Figure).

To see a video on drawing the forward-thrusted shoulder alteration, please watch this video:


For those of you needing this tune-up, I think you'll find the information straight forward and easy to do.

Happy Fitting,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

3 comments:

  1. Thank you Glenda - I'm pretty sure I have this problem, as well as a very straight and narrow back, so this is useful to know.

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  2. thank you Came just in time to clarify what to do in my fit.

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    Replies
    1. Glad this information has been of benefit to you.

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