Jun 13, 2017

Adding a Bust Dart to the Shirt Front Pattern


Most of you ladies with a full bust are going to achieve a better fit with the Shirt Kit pattern if you will add a side-fitting bust dart to the pattern.  And even though this process is covered clearly in the Shirt Kit Instruction Book - see page 13, it's always beneficial to see exactly what the steps look like in a real life example.

So here 'ya go...a step-by-step photo tutorial of adding a bust fitting dart.

Step 1 - Draw the appropriate slash/cutting lines as labeled in the above illustration.

Step 2 - It's difficult to see in this photo, but you need to cut from D to A, leaving a pivot point on the seam allowance at Pt D.  Then cut from A down through point B.  Also cut from C to A, leaving a very tiny pivot/hinge point at A.  From there you want to spread on the A-B line the amount required for your cup size.  You are spreading the side wider to allow for the dart width.  The following table tells you how much to spread open for your bra cup size:
C cup = 1/2" (1.3cm)
D cup = 3/4" (1.7cm)
DD cup = 1" (2.5cm)
E cup = 1 1/4" (3.2cm)

Step 3 - Then back the opening with additional tracing vellum.  Tape it down well.  Measure the width of the dart opening on the side seam.

Step 4 - Draw a line perpendicular from A through the side seam.  Mark this as E.  From E, measure down the side seam the width of the dart and mark as G (sorry you can't see G on this photo).

Step 5 - From G draw a straight line up to point F, which is positioned about 1" (2.5cm) away from point A.

Step 6 - Back the openings with tracing vellum, tape well and then 'perfect/true' the dart extension point by folding the bottom leg of the dart up to the top leg of the dart. 

Step 7 - Temporarily tape (using Removable Tape) the dart in position.

Step 8 - Then cut on the seam line. 

Step 9 - Remove the tape and when the dart opens up you will have created the exact dart extension shape.

That's the process.  If your shirt tends to hike up in the front due to a full bust, you'll appreciate having this dart to give better fit and shape for your body.

If you'd like to see the video process of adding this side seam dart, just watch this short video below.  You may need to watch it on your tablet or desktop computer if it doesn't open up in your email message.

Happy fitting & sewing!
Glenda...the Good Stitch.

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