Jun 20, 2017

Raglan Sleeve Fleece Jacket

www.surefitdesigns.blogspot.com

What am I doing on hot summer days sewing with cozy fleece?  Making a raglan sleeve bomber-style jacket to wear to the cold group exercise room at our gym.  I'm always cold particularly during my yoga classes and I've wanted to sew this ages ago but could never seem to find the days to do it.

It's done...it's cozy...it's comfortable and warm.

If you're interested in drawing a raglan sleeve from your Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit bodice blueprint, just follow the directions from Fashion Leaflet #1 for Raglan Sleeve DesigningJust click here - it's an easy download for just $1.49.  This particular raglan sleeve is called a one-piece raglan even though it has the shoulder dart.  A two-piece raglan sleeve splits the sleeve open to the sleeve hem and consequently conceals the shape of the shoulder dart in the seaming.

I wanted a bomber-style of jacket, so here are the modifications I made to the pattern:
1. Drop the CF neck line 5/8".
2. Drop and widen the bodice underarm 5/8".
3. Drop and widen the sleeve underarm 5/8".
4. Continue the extra side seam width (from widening the underarm) down to the hem level.
5. Add ribbing 2 3/4" wide at hip level and to finish the sleeve 'cuff''.
6. Add a curved, patch-style of pocket and finished the opening with 1" wide ribbing.


7. Use the CoverStitch machine to topstitch significant seams like the raglan, the bust dart, the shoulder dart and to attach the pocket to the jacket.


8. Then finished it off with an exposed zipper at center front and used the Mandarin Collar pattern from the Sure-Fit Designs Collar Collection to complete the neck edge.

The fit is comfortable over a regular T-Shirt, but if I wanted to wear it over top of something heavier (like a sweatshirt), I'd recommend widening the underarm approximately another 1/2" (1.3 cm) and lowering the underarm an additional 5/8" (1.6cm).  It all depends on how bulky the garment is that is being worn underneath.

Happy fitting and sewing!

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