Sep 12, 2017

Let's Get Physical!



25 years ago Glenda brought Sure-Fit Designs to the UK while attending a Stitchery Exhibition in Harrogate, England. Sure-Fit Designs once again is going to be present at arguably the biggest show of the year for the UK, the Great British Sewing Bee Live exhibition at London Excel.
Judith Johnson (our SFD UK/Ireland distributor) and I thought it would be a nice change from the usual sewing related blog to discuss the preparations for this grand exhibition including how she has made her online web store and Learning Centre into a physical store at the stand (booth).

Judith offers the following: I first heard about the Great British Sewing Bee Live in February this year. With the exhibition date being in September, I thought we would have plenty of time to prepare for the show. But as is often the case, time has passed very quickly.

The SFD Operations HQ (my home) and Planning Committee my daughter Heather (who assists with the website, presentations and other technical needs) my husband, Mark (the handyman), and myself would not have imagined the amount of planning that would be involved in creating a 4 day ‘store’ at the show. Nevertheless, it has been an extremely enjoyable experience.

The first decision to be made was the size and style of stand to choose and its position in the exhibition. We opted for a stand that is open on two sides as this would give greater visibility of demonstrations to the public. I discuss this next.

As always, we aim to promote learning at any opportunity. The Learning Centre at http://www.sfdlearningcenter.com provides many videos and articles to help with pattern fitting and drafting and we wanted to take some aspect of this Learning Centre to the show.

This meant that any stand had to accommodate a training area. This area will have a table, chairs, and tools for a practical designing exercise where anyone can sit and have a go at. One practical designing exercise that ladies will be able to sit and do, is how to move the bust dart from one location to another.

We will also give regular demos of how to use the Kits and Master Patterns. But even choosing the right table, white with rounded corners, for the stand has taken many web searches and discussions. Most tables were either too long or too wide.  But through steadfast searching, we now have delivered to HQ: 1 table and 1000 bodice prints (we're expecting a lot of ladies to stop by to experience how to move a dart from one location to another - I'll teach you how). 

Next delivery - 3 large heavy boxes of Sally Silhouette Notepads.
Whilst talking of designing, we thought a few Sally Silhouette Pads may be popular addition to the Combo packs and here Heather took the Silhouette from Glenda’s site to create a batch of designing pads.


Probably the greatest logistical challenge was getting sufficient Sure-Fit Designs stock and supplies here, in time, and in manageable quantities. Cue Glenda and Wes. Every month since February they have been packing and shipping large heavy boxes of stock via FedEx over to the UK. No sooner did they send one shipment than they were preparing for the next whilst still supporting their own sales and those of the other 3 international distributors. And just when they thought they had sent the last one, I asked for two more. My thanks go to Glenda, Wes and Kelly for their help and support with this task.

HQ now becoming more like a Storage Centre...even the delivery men are beginning to comment.

Then, out of the blue I receive an email from McCall's pattern company to ask if I wanted to supply up to 4 garments for the Cat Walk Fashion Show. Well, panic a little I did. I never hide from the fact that I am a novice seamstress. I love fitting and designing with Sure-Fit Designs but my standard of sewing is not up to Cat Walk level.

Those of you familiar with Sure-Fit Designs will know that to make clothes that fit properly we use personal measurements including shoulder length, shoulder to apex and shoulder to waist. We also use full bust measurements. So you can imagine my frustration when the only information the organisers of the Cat Walk show could give me was that the models were 5’ 10” tall, 34” B cup bust, 25” waist and 35” hip. How do you make anything that you will be confident will fit?

To the rescue came Glenda offering me the loan of garments from her display wardrobe. We just had one hurdle to cross. Glenda is not 5ft 10”!  So after a lot of discussion we went with garments that are reasonably flexible for the height of the model.


I made a cap sleeve dress, in a jersey (to provide some ‘give’) and a little longer in the waist than my mannequin. My theory being that a cap sleeve does not require the shoulder length to be accurate, moving the bust dart into a cowl neckline meant the positioning of the bust dart to apex was not important. But shoulder to waist length is still a worry for me because I wanted to keep the waist shaping so that it didn’t look too baggy.

As time progressed, we needed to think of other aspects of the website that we had to convert to a physical form. For instance, how to show someone the contents of each ‘Combo’.   Combo is the word we use to refer to a set combination of products that are grouped together and offered with a discount. For instance, the Dress Kit Combo and the Works Combo Plus.

We couldn’t display all the products in each of the Combo combinations that we offer as we don’t have the space but equally it isn’t practical to use the web. People don’t visit a show to look at the web.


Well, Heather’s IT skills were used once again. We discussed printing the Combo pictures, lists of what each Combo contains and laminating them. Then, when looking at the printing options we found we could easily produce a spiral-bound book on beautiful paper, with cover and backing and we added to it the Combo Comparison Chart. The link to this video shows you the lovely book that visitors will be able to look at.  Here's the video - If you can't see this very short video in your email, please click on this link -
https://youtu.be/XjEzsMLVUus
 

Then came the challenge of stock storage and counter. With a stand that is only 4 metres by 2 metres that also had to accommodate the table referred to above, the specification of this was important. It has to accommodate kits and long tracing vellum tubes as well as a computer to display a loop of the Sure-Fit videos (created by Heather). It also has to be able to be dismantled and put together again easily. Mark is very practical and has created the storage/counter that we will use at the show. This has a tall cupboard for the tracing vellum as well as accessible drawers for the kits.


We are all so excited to be representing Sure-Fit Designs at this show and look forward to meeting our lovely customers, both existing and new, that will be there. If you are going to the show please come and see us on Stand G7.  You will be able to meet Heather and me everyday and my other daughter Charlotte on the Saturday of the show.  You will know who is who by the name badges that Heather created. 



So, having sent the garments off to McCall’s, all that is left is to get a few posters designed and printed (Heather again) and then start the mass packing of boxes and equipment to take down to the show the day before it opens. Oh no, there is another challenge….. how to get it all in the cars…..



If you just happen to be in London on one of the exhibition days, make sure you come by Stand G7, say hello and see the results of our physical Sure-Fit Designs store...Judith.





From Glenda the Good Stitch: I must say I am more than impressed with the enormous effort that Judith has gone to for this Sewing Bee Exhibition.  No doubt theirs will be one of the more popular stands.  You'll see Sure-Fit Designs in action, have an opportunity to sit and learn a practical experience of moving a dart from one location to another, and you'll be given the BEST customer care and service.

Saying 'thank you', to Judith, Heather and Mark doesn't begin to express how appreciative Wes and I are for your effort in representing Sure-Fit Designs so professionally in this upcoming Sewing Bee Exhibition.

Thank you,





Sep 5, 2017

SFD Australian Distributor Announcement!

www.surefitdesigns.blogspot.com

Sure-Fit Designs

proudly introduces our new
Australian Distributors
Martha & Robert Schuster


Martha & Robert Schuster are situated in the Brisbane area.  They are now stocking the full complement of Sure-Fit Designs products.  Martha has been fitting and sewing with the Sure-Fit Designs fitting and sewing system for over 20 years.  We are delighted that she and her husband will be representing Sure-Fit Designs in Australia. 

After their training in early November, Martha will be offering SFD Fit & Sew Retreats, special events and presentations beginning in early 2018.  If you own a sewing machine or fabric store, and are looking for that special event to kick off your new year, make sure to contact Martha (contact details below).

In addition, they will also be able to take orders from New Zealand and the surrounding Pacific Rim countries.  Please visit the Australian branch for Sure-Fit Designs products at www.surefitdesigns.com.au.  

Experience the benefits of ordering locally:
1. Lower postage costs
2. Much quicker delivery
3. No additional customs import fees
4. Orders are placed in Australian currency.

Contact information:
www.surefitdesigns.com.au
E-mail: martha@surefitdesigns.com.au - questions about pattern fitting/sewing/designing, Fit & Sew Retreats, presentations and events
             robert@surefitdesigns.com.au - questions about orders, pricing or shipping
Phone: 0402 342 099 (domestic calls)
Phone: +61 402 342 099 (international calls)

Welcome Martha & Robert!
Please take a few moments - send a quick email - and welcome your new Australian distributors:

It's wonderful to have you both in Australia!
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

Aug 22, 2017

New Fashion Leaflet

www.surefitdesigns.com

So many of you love the wrap front crossover style of blouse.  Last week, I gave you information on how to remove the gap that just might happen on your diagonal crossover.  As I explained, this is due to the crossover being on the bias and a bias cut typically will stretch and will often result in a gaping front overlap.  If this is your first time reading on this topic, you may want to look back to last week's post.

Today I'm announcing the newest digital Fashion Leaflet - the Wrap Crossover: Sleeveless Surplice Top.
This particular top is sewn with a very limited stretch knit fabric - meaning I did not size down my bodice blueprint.  But I did use the series of underarm dots for Sleeveless Garments so that the underarm would pull up and in toward my body.  Just remember, the stretchier your fabric, the more you will want to size down to accommodate the stretch of the fabric. You'll find information on sizing down for stretchy fabrics on page 6 of your Dress Kit instruction book.  If you want to sew this from a woven fabric, just think ahead and plan for a center back zipper.


This digital Fashion Leaflet can be purchased from this page - http://surefitdesigns.homestead.com/DigitalE-Goods.html
Cost? = $4.49

Happy Sewing!
 

Aug 15, 2017

Wrap It Up! CrossOver Surplice Bodice Front

www.surefitdesigns.blogspot.com



Have you ever heard of a ‘surplice’ style? It’s not a commonly used term. One definition is as a noun ‘a garment in which the two halves of the front cross diagonally’. As an adjective, it is defined as ‘designating, forming or having a closure with diagonally crossing halves as in a surplice neckline.’

The wrap crossover or ‘surplice’ is the topic of this blog. It’s a much-loved style and seems to be as timeless and popular as ever. It’s a great style for either dresses or tops and can be sewn from either woven or knit fabric. But it doesn’t come without inherent trouble spots. Let’s deal with two common issues – 1. A gapping crossover due to an incorrect dart width in your pattern and 2. A gapping crossover due to the stretch or give of the bias cut on the fabric to create the crossover wrap.

When using your Sure-Fit Designs™ Dress Kit bodice blueprint, we cover one major troublesome issue which is a full (or very full) bust. Typically commercial patterns offer a B-cup dart shape. Due to a fuller-than-B-bust that you might have, a wrapped surplice on your torso will no doubt gap open. That’s the nature of a dart that is too small for your full bust. But of course, many of you already know there is no need for a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) with Sure-Fit Designs™ when you choose your correct bra cup size with our unique Adjust-A-Bust template. In drawing your body blueprint, you’ve used the bra cup shape on the template that will give you the best shape of dart for your full bust. That is going to solve much of the gap issues that a surplice wrap often presents.



One down, one to go. The dart width you’ve chosen is correct for your body, so why would a wrap crossover style still gap? The simple answer is because that crossover in on the diagonal or bias of the fabric. As many of you know the bias offers the most give/stretch in fabric and therefore a gap can occur due to the fabric stretching on this diagonal cut.





Let’s look at the pattern first.
**Draw the wrap crossover. The beginning of this short video shows you exactly how to set up your bodice front and how to draw the diagonal cross over. D.21 Symmetrical & Asymmetrical Bodice Designing - easy process explained

 

(To view the above video, you may likely need to open this link in a browser window - https://youtu.be/nUrT-uEvhlU ).
It would likely be best to sew a mock-up of this style. If the front gaps slightly, you can dart this out in one of 3 places –at the bust level, the shoulder line, or the waist line. See the following illustrations. All 3 of these options in essence shorten the length of the diagonal crossover.

1. At the bust level, pinch out a narrow dart going to the apex. On the diagonal wrap line, mark point A then mark point B approximately ½ - ¾” (1.3 – 1.9cm) above A. Cut from A to the apex marking and cut on the top leg of the Designer’s Dart to the apex (the apex is the pivot point/hinge). Pivot point A up to point B allowing the pattern to open the dart making it just a little wider. Then make sure to re-draw the grainline from the bottom up and keep it parallel to your center front marking.


2. At the shoulder line, pinch out a narrow dart beginning at the neck point and tapering to nothing at the shoulder point.




3. At the waistline, redraw from the crossover point to nothing at the side seam, thereby shortening the length of the bias crossover.

Two more tips:

1. Adjust the crossover if necessary. Another issue that might occur is that the point at which the left side crosses over the right is too low for your liking. Simply re-shape the crossover point with your Designing Stylus so that this straight diagonal line now has some lift to it. True this lifted curvy bit back into either side of the diagonal line. It may look a little strange, but it will lay well on your torso.



2. Stabilize the crossover when sewing. As you sew this diagonal seam, most likely while adding the facing, insert a narrow stay tape to help prevent any further stretch.



You’re ready to wrap it up! See page 42 in the SFD Dress Kit Instruction Book (6th edition) and Style #1 in the designing book Beyond Bodice Basics, for a simple surplice design. Give it a try…you should be pleasantly surprised.

Happy fitting & Sewing!
Glenda...the Good Stitch!
 

Aug 7, 2017

Flash Shipping Sale - Today Only $6.95

Flash 1-Day Flat Rate ($6.95) Shipping Sale!

If you've been wanting to purchase one of the larger SFD Combos, like the 3-Kit Combo or Works Combo PLUS...but the cost of postage/shipping held you back...well today only you can purchase any Sure-Fit Designs products, including the largest discounted Combos and pay only $6.95 in shipping.  

~ SAVE $$$ ~

The postage for the Works Combo PLUS is normally $23.95.  So yes, this is a huge savings.

Shop - Tuesday August 8, 2017 - until midnight.  You'll only be charged $6.95 no matter the quantity of items purchased.










For our Canadian customers, you'll also be able to take advantage of this one day shipping sale.  Anna Espindola, our Canadian distributor will ship any order anywhere in Canada for $8.99 CND.  It's a perfect time to start your Sure-Fit Designs sewing experience or add to your existing pattern kits and tools.  For Canadian ordering, please go to www.surefitdesigns.ca.


Enjoy your shopping!
Glenda...the Good Stitch!


Aug 1, 2017

Dragon Embroidery & Rounded Back

www.surefitdesigns.blogspot.com

Just in time for the new season of Game of Thrones...if you happen to be a fan.  This dragon embroidery was stitched by Christine Shanahan, one of our Sure-Fit Designs UK sewists.  She did a fabulous job and Wes (my DH and your cameraman) ended up with a new T-shirt.




But my DH is definitely developing quite a rounded upper back, so this is a good opportunity to review how to refine the back neck, lift it up and make it fit better.
Here's a photo of what a typical ready-to-wear T-Shirt looks like on his neck and back.

Notice how the front neck ribbing is riding high, the back neck pulls down and definitely doesn't cover his rounded upper neck hump, and the shoulder seams...oh they are riding so far back from his natural shoulder position.

To correct this on his Sure-Fit Designs Shirt pattern, I used to simply raise the center back neck point about 5/8", but recently I've also split the pattern and added more lift.

After you've slashed and spread open as shown above, you would typically true Center Back with a slightly rounded CB seam.  But because this was sewn into a T-Shirt, which doesn't usually have a center back seam, and because I wanted to place the dragon embroidery in the center of the upper back, center back was trued and straightened.  This neck lift is still there, but the curved CB shaping is eliminated.  Wes is definitely fast becoming a candidate for a shirt with a CB seam due to this upper neck rounding.


With the CB now lifted, you can see how much better the fabric comes up and over top of the back neck rounding.  And notice the shoulder seam - it is sitting where it is supposed to - on the top of his shoulder line.  Such an improvement.  Just look back to the olive green T-shirt above, the simple splitting and lifting of the CB makes the difference of night and day to how it is riding on his body.



You'll find an article in the Sure-Fit Designs Learning Center that goes into much greater detail and also shows incorporating the center back seam for total great shaping of the back.  Take a few minutes to click through to http://www.sfdlearningcenter.com/RoundedUpperBack.html.

 Happy fitting & sewing,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!