Dec 15, 2015

Upper thigh Dart/Wedge: A Way to Help Remove Under-the-Butt Wrinkles

If you have baggies under your backside, there are a number of alternatives for removing them.  This accompanying photo is a little on the grainy side (sorry) but it does show you what this situation might look like.

Horizontal Upper Thigh Dart/Wedge

This refinement may help your situation.  Pinch out an pin a dart/wedge from the upper, inner thigh on both front and back going to nothing at the side seam.  You have to do this on front and back so that the inseams remain the same length.

Try the pants on.  If this helps, then baste this dart in place and try them on once more.  If you're satisfied with the result, then follow these instructions to make this change on your pants blueprint.

1.  Draw a line perpendicular to the straight of grain from the inseam to the side seam.

2.  Cut from the inseam to the side seam, leaving a paper hinge at the side seam.  Overlap to remove the width of the dart/wedge.

True the inseam.

Redraw the straight of grain from the leg upward.

3.  Even though this process does not change the length of CF or CB crotch curves, it does tilt them.  If you do this on a grid/grain board, you will be able to determine the amount of the tilt.

Cut this amount off CB and add it back on to side back.  Do the same for CF.

This will straighten the CF, CB and side seams to their original positions.

Revised Muslin Test
Needless to say you will need to sew a test with these changes incorporated.  You may need to adjust the direction of the darts as well as evaluate how the waist edge is now sitting on your body.

Alternative Tune-Ups 
For other tune-up alternatives, see:
1.  Pants Kit Instruction Book - page 15#11

Happy Sewing,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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