May 29, 2012

Bodice Fits Like A Second Skin

I have completed my redrawing and cutting out out my new personal blueprint bodice pattern.  I am very excited about the fit.  I had some alterations to make and was unsure about how to go about making them.  But this weekend my husband and I wrapped me in duck tape and we made a personalized dress form which I have hung from a wooden hanger in my doorway.
I slipped my bodice on the form and it was easy to see the tune-ups that I need to make.  I pinned my changes on the form and then tried on the pinned bodice and it fit absolutely perfect - almost like a second skin.

My question is..........NOW WHAT DO I DO???  How do I translate my changes onto my personal pattern so I don't have to keep making these changes.

For example, I have made a correction at the top of the shoulder seam to correct for my sloping shoulders.  So now I have my bodice test pinned at the correction, but how to I translate that correction to my personal bodice pattern?

Rebecca, Fun (I hope) that you did a duct tape form. Sometimes, it's just easier to see the exact changes necessary when you are standing back objectively - as long as the form is EXACTLY your shape. 

First, it's best if I know the tune-ups/changes you needed to make.  but basically, as an example - if you had one shoulder sloping more than the other - and let's say you pinched out 1/2" at the shoulder point on the low side - then you would take off 1/2" at the shoulder point on the pattern.  But if you have an asymmetrical body - then that change would only be done on the low side of the pattern - meaning, you'd need to draw off both a right and left side bodice pattern.  This is just an example.  It would help me to know what changes you need to make to guide you as how to translate them onto the pattern.

Just remember, whatever you did on the muslin test, do exactly the same thing on the paper pattern. And then, once the changes are translated, then you use THAT body blueprint for all subsequent design changes.
P.S.  If your sloper (SFD body blueprint) really is fitting like a second skin, you may have reduced too much ease and created a moulage. See my post - 4/9/12 - What's a Sloper, Moulage or Body Blueprint?

P.P.S.S. - Rebecca has since sent photos.  First she over-measure (thinking she needed to) and it was obviously too big. And then to compensate, she under-measured.  As a result, the bodice did fit like a 'second skin' and is too tight.  There is no ease remaining for comfort and wearing room.  Please remember - accurate measuring is the first key to good fit.

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