May 14, 2012

Dress Kit Bodice Tune-up

Neckline gaps and slight sag lines on upper chest above the bust.
Vertical sag lines forming a pleat material fold at each side of the bust.
Upper back above the back darts forms a soft slightly billowing pillow.
Under arm seam gaps from underarm to bottom of bust dart.

Proposed Fixes:
Raise front shoulder seam 1 meter same seam line
Raise back shoulder seam 1 meter same seam line
Take in side seam from underarm hole to 7" below underarm hole in a curve front and back
When I pinned this shoulder seams fit perfectly, neckline lays even and flat and side vertical pleat disappears and back pillow poof is gone.

What do you think of these changes...especially the underarm side seam instead of a straight line it becomes a curve??

Rebecca, With the issues you're describing, it almost sounds like the entire bodice is slightly too big.  You haven't told me what your bust circumference measurement is - but would it make sense to bring the entire measurement down 1/2 dot or one entire dot?  That would make the neck line smaller and likely get rid of the vertical drag lines on either side of bust and upper chest and reduce ease on that underarm seam from underarm pt 2 to top of bust dart.

I'm not sure what you mean by raising the front and back shoulder 1 METER same seam line.  What is a METER?  Do you mean 1 dot?  But whatever it means, if the bodice now fits perfectly and eliminates the issues you've listed - then by all means - do it.

What shape of side seam curve - in or out?  I would imagine an inward curve - thus removing ease and the fullness above the back dart would disappear.  And sure, if you need to curve the side seam for the best fit, then by all means you can do this.  It may affect some future design changes - it would likely depend on the style you want.

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