Aug 28, 2012

Have You Fallen off the Waist/Crotch Grid on your SFD Pants Pattern?

If you have a thick waist and fairly short front crotch length, when you are drawing off your SFD Pants Front Pattern, your numbers may fall off the Waist/Crotch Grid that is provided on the Pants Master pattern.

The remedy is so logical (as are most solutions with SFD).  You simply extend the grid lines.  I've posted a short, but informative article on drawing the solution on Adapting & Drawing the Waist/Crotch GridThis article is found in the SFD Learning Center - Article Library.  There's also a couple of photos of a what one person's body looks like with this situation and required this solution.  You'll want to check out this article.

I hope you can see the photo of how easy this is to do. 

And as always, contact me if you need more assistance.


Aug 21, 2012

Everything Old is New Again

Not too long ago, in fact it was in the May 31, 2012 edition of the Wall Street Journal, I saw this article called: Jean Mutation: How Red, Pink and Mustard Took Over.  It says ‘Bye, Bye, Blues…J Brand jump-started the color trend in Feb. 2011.  Since then, many denim brands have followed with bright, distinctive hues such as mustard, green and red.’  The article’s author, Christina Binkley says, ‘It’s hard to miss the season’s most prominent denim trend: blinding color!’

Here’s what they look like.
Now, let’s jump back to 1984!  Here I am in my SFD hot pink jeans with turquoise blouse trimmed in hot pink.  They were skinny, very trim fitting jeans designed from the SFD Pants Kit.  I may not be tall and skinny or wearing high platform shoes, but I loved them!
Though they wouldn’t fit me now, you can see why I say ‘Everything old is new again!’  If you wait long enough, the fashion cycle rolls back around and our old clothes become the newest fashion.

P.S. - Yes, my husband's shirt is from the SFD Shirt Kit.  My blouse is from the Dress Kit.

Aug 14, 2012

Finishing a Knit Top V-Neck

There are often many different ways to accomplish any task - like how best to finish off the raw edge of V-Neck T-shirt or top.  I'd like to share with you an easy technique that my friend Joy - from Joyful Expressions - uses very successfully.

Joy not only has written instructions, found here - Joyful Expressions - but she has also prepared a video tutorial on finishing the knit V-neck.  I encourage you to watch it.  You will notice that she is using her Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit bodice for her pattern.  (Joy has made so many SFD blouses and tops, that she has a body blueprint (personal sloper) for working with both wovens and knit fabrics.  Also, you'll likely notice that she has moved the side bust dart down into the lower side seam.)

During this tutorial, she shows you how to draw/trace a facing for the neckline.  In addition to her visual instructions, please realize that the written instructions for drawing a perfectly fitting facing are found on page 20 of the SFD Dress Kit Instruction Book.

This is a 2-Part Tutorial.  Here's Part 1.

Part 2
Thanks for sharing, Joy.


Aug 7, 2012

Technique: Stitching a V-Neck

Stitching a V-neck, which results in a sharp 'V' point when the facing is turned, is easy with this technique.

Begin by using a magic, disappearing marking pen or tracing paper to mark the stitching line for the V-neck.  This visually helps so that you can see where to stop the stitching to make the first pivot.

The facing has been prepared with interfacing and pinned in place to the neck edge.

When you are stitching the seam allowance (either 5/8" or 3/8" (1.6cm or 1.0cm), as you get to within 1" (2.5cm) of the actual 'V' point, tighten up the regular stitch length to become very tight stitches.  When you get to the point, leave the needle in the 'down' position and pivot the fabric around the needle until you are able to stitch across the point with one or two of these tiny reinforcement stitches.  Then pivot one more time before you begin stitching up the other side of the 'V'.  Keep the stitches tight and small for about 1" (2.5cm) as you sew up the other side, then lengthen the stitches back to normal to complete sewing the neck seam.

Here is a very clear illustration of what your stitching should look like.  I've exaggerated the illustration of the stitch length so that you can see where the stitches begin to get tighter.

Once you've competed stitching the neckline, very carefully clip through the seam allowance up to the 'V' point.  You may want to stop the clip back a very short distance, then clip diagonally to each pivot point.  Be very careful NOT to clip through the stitches.  You will also want to trim away any excess seam allowance to almost nothing right at the point.  But for the remainder of the seam allowance, you should leave enough trimmed allowance to allow for understitching. 

The purpose of stitching across the bottom of the 'V', allows for the 'turn of the cloth' when the facing is turned to the inside.  And, understitching the facing to the seam allowance helps the facing to lay flat on the inside.

This V-neck stitching technique is suitable for either knits or woven fabric.

Next week, watch helpful videos on making the facing lay flat on the inside of a V-neck knit top which are provided from Joyful Expressions.

Happy fitting and sewing,