Animal Print Slinky

www.surefitdesigns.blogspot.com
Last week I talked about working with slinky and some of the challenges you'll encounter as well as ways to best deal with the fabric.  Here's a cute outfit where the skirt is designed and sewn with a 'slinky' type of fabric.  The top is sewn from a very stretchy 2-way knit jersey, though it isn't slinky.

The hem of the skirt is simply finished as a rolled hem sewn on the serger with wooly nylon.  Sorry it's hard to see up close when it's been stitched in black thread.  The waist edge is pull-on and has been finished with 1" wide elastic. Directions to design and sew this style of waist edge are found in the Pants Kit Instruction Book on page 24.

For the top, I used my Dress Kit bodice blueprint, though I'd previously removed the dart for a T-Shirt type of style.  Since I'm so small busted I can get away without having the dart.  For these directions, go to this article - http://www.sfdlearningcenter.com/T-Shirt-Tactics.html.

Here's a close-up of the sleeve detail.  This is a 3/4 length sleeve and I added shirring at the middle of the sleeve near the hem level.

Shirring instructions can be found in the designing book Sew Sensational Shirts.

The top features a V-Neck embellished with strips of the animal print criss-crossing the V-neck opening.

This criss-crossing process went like this.
1. Copy both sides of the V-neck shape on tracing vellum.

2.  Then draw where you want your strips to criss-cross.  I've highlighted the approximate positions in pink and yellow highlighter tape.

3.  Prepare the strips.  I interfaced directly down the center.

4.  Then I stitched and turned the tubes/strips.

5.  Lay the strips criss-crossing one another using the drawing as a guide.

6. Hand or machine baste the strips at the cross points.

7. Staystitch the neck edge and clip to the V point.

8. Using the vellum diagram as a guide, place the strips to the neck edge.  Baste in place.

 Inside view

Right side view

9. Then finish off with the facing.  I cut a 2 part front facing (meaning there was a seam at CF) so that it would be easier to stitch up to the V.  It still wasn't that easy, but with persistence and fiddling, it all went together.

I'm sure there is likely an easier way to attach these strips to the front.  Perhaps someone who has previously sewn this type of insert would like to leave a comment as I'm sure it will be of benefit to all reading this blog.  I invite your comments and do appreciate them.

Happy Fitting & Sewing!

** News Flash - Shirt Fitting Course on DVD

It's been a couple of months in the making, but it's finally ready to unveil.  This new Shirt Fitting Course on DVD completes the SFD instructional DVD fitting courses.  As so many of you know, we introduced the new Shirt Kit in early 2015.  Now there's complete and detailed pattern drawing, sewing and fitting instructions to go along with it - all on this new 2-DVD set.

This short video gives you highlights of what's in the course and what you can expect.

This 2-DVD set contains 3.5 hrs of detailed instruction with great close-ups.  I know you'll benefit greatly by following along as I take you through the entire process of drawing your SFD Shirt pattern.  Of course, I show you complete sewing construction steps, fit evaluation and minor tune-ups if you need them, how to add a dart and how to add piping.  You can see this DVD set is packed full.  For those of you reading this blog who don't yet have the SFD Shirt Kit, you will need that along with the Designing Stylus and some Tracing Vellum.

As an opening special, we're offering a 20% discount for this DVD set.  But if you want to add either the Shirt Kit or the designing book Sew Sensational Shirts, you'll receive a 25% discount.  The choice is yours!

These introductory specials will run through Monday November 2, 2015.  When you place your order in the Shopping Cart, simply enter in either Discount Code - SFC20 (for the DVD only) or SFC25 (for one of the product combinations).
By the way, this new DVD also comes with  20-page downloadable Instructional Materials.

You get complete written instructions for the process of adding a Continuous Lap Sleeve Placket, and 2 new Fashion Leaflets: the Camp Shirt and Women's Cargo Jacket.  I hope you enjoy designing and wearing both.  They're both casual yet smart and of course, all from your SFD Shirt Kit!

To get the introductory special pricing on this new DVD course, just click here - SFD Shirt Fitting Course on DVD.

Happy Sewing!

Sleeve Facts: Sleeves & all their quirkiness!

Setting in sleeves and having them look totally perfect on your body is challenging to say the least.  Why?  You are taking a flat piece of fabric, cutting a shape with opposing curves and placing that sleeve into a 3-dimensional armhole to go over your 3-dimensional rounded shoulder and underarm.  To give this flat sleeve pattern 3-dimensional shape, we use underarm seaming, basting stitches and ease.

Factors affecting Sleeve Fit:                                                       

1.  Cap height
2.  Cap width
3.  Shape of the cap
4.  Relationship of the front to the back of the cap
5.  Cap ease
6.  Shape of your shoulder and upper arm
7.  Underarm/bicep circumference                                                           
8.  Fabric choice (woven vs. knit)
9. Style of sleeve (tailored vs. casual)
10.  One or two-piece sleeve
11.  Sewing technique for setting in the sleeve

Of this short list, one of the most important factors is sleeve cap ease, which is the extra length the cap has that shapes the fabric to lift and fit up and around your shoulder joint.  Sleeve cap ease affects the cap height, width and shape of the cap.  It would be great if there were hard and fast rules about cap ease, but that is not eh case...it is all variable!  It varies depending on the fabric choice and the intended profile.  Is the garment a tailored jacket, a camp shirt or somewhere in between?

How much ease should the cap have?  Well, you can see it all depends on many of the above factors.

When sewing your trial bodice muslin, the back sleeve cap should have approximately 5/8" - 1/2" (1.6 - 1.3 cm) while the front should have approximately 3/8"- 1/2" (1.0 - 1.3 cm)ease.  If you end up with a little less or a little more, don't worry about it.  Depending on the fabric you're using to stitch the test, the ease may just be fine.  And, part of this will depend on your sewing skills.  There is a video tutorial on setting in sleeves - just follow this link - How to Set in the Sleeve -D.8.d Pt. 4-How to Set in the Sleeve.  This of course is just one of the ways to set a sleeve in; you may have your own preferred technique.

This discussion will go on to deal with changing the sleeve cap shape and ease, but first another extremely important determining factor in the sleeve fit is your bicep circumference and the required ease for your arm girth.  This is actually the first, if not most important factor in sleeve fit.  If the sleeve doesn't go around your arm comfortably (arm plus ease), then it won't matter what is going on with the sleeve cap ease - it's simply not going to fit or look decent.

The amount of bicep ease is once again variable and depends on its own factors, such as style or profile of sleeve and fabric choice.  A knit sleeve will need less circumference ease than a woven sleeve.  For the SFD bodice test, I usually suggest 1 1/2" - 2" (3.8 - 5.1cm) bicep ease.  If your upper arm is particularly large and you already have to widen the sleeve substantially, try to keep to the minimum amount of ease.  But if the test garment feels too tight for comfortable movement, then you'll need to add more ease.  The width of the sleeve at the underarm is always going to be the primary factor for fit.  The cap height, width and its subsequent ease will simply need to be adjusted as best as possible.  There is no magic bullet.  See Large Upper Arm Minor Tune-Up, page 18, #13 of the Dress Kit Instruction Book and/or video D.9.5 Large Upper Arm Alteration.

Sleeve Cap Shape and Ease

Let's assume you've drawn your SFD bodice front, back and sleeve pattern.  Keep in mind that many of you will have changed the shape of your armhole.  You may have 'scooped' the armhole shape more dramatically for your narrow upper chest or back blades width. Perhaps you would have watched video:  D.9.4 Refining the Fit: Dress/Shirt Armscye Modifying/Scooping the Armscye Curve.

Now it's time to check how much ease the sleeve cap has.   Measure the armscye curves from underarm point #2 to shoulder point on both front and back bodice.  Then measure the sleeve cap from back underarm point #2 to cap notch and front underarm point #2 to cap notch.  Stand the tape measure on edge to do this.  Compare back cap to back armscye length and front cap to front armscye length.  You're looking for approximately 5/8"-1/2" (1.6-1.3cm) ease in the back while the front should have approximately 3/8"- 1/2" (1.0 - 1.3cm) ease.  As mentioned above, these numbers are flexible based on previously stated variables.

 Changing the sleeve cap ease depends on the length of the line.  A curved line going from point A to B is going to measure longer than a straight line going to and from the same points.  Whether you need to add or subtract cap ease, you can change the height of the cap, increase or decrease the shape of the cap curves or change the width of the bicep.

As an example, if you need to decrease cap ease and you have a small bicep, consider decreasing the underarm points - bringing them in to a smaller number.  Even if you have a small bicep, you can always apply the principle of adding approximately 1 1/2" - 2" (3.8 - 5.1cm) bicep ease and comparing the the master pattern.  But if you have a large upper arm/bicep, you likely won't be reducing the width of the sleeve once you've established your correct circumference + ease, so that leaves the cap height and width (controlled by the curve of the cap) to make changes in sleeve cap ease.

How to change Cap Ease - 3 Alternatives:

1. Decrease/increase cap height

2. Decrease/increase cap width

 3. Decrease/increase bicep width 









The Pitch of the Sleeve

We've all seen sleeves that have a more or less diagonal fold
coming from around the elbow and and heading up toward the
cap. **Please note that this is going to happen on all one-piece
sleeves to some degree.  That is because your arm does not hang
down the side of your body in a perfectly straight line.  From the
elbow, your forearm pitches forward.

Many one-piece sleeves are basically straight.  Placing this straight piece of fabric on your slightly forward-pitched arm will cause the upward diagonal fold from the elbow up because that's where your arm starts to bend.  Some one-piece sleeves do have a slight forward pitch below the elbow dart, as does the Sure-Fit Designs sleeve, but unless this pitch is rather dramatic, or you have a two-piece shaped sleeve, it really isn't possible to totally remove this diagonal fold.  It's simply part of the overall make-up of the one-piece sleeve.

For ease of simplicity, the SFD sleeve has a slight forward pitch with a 1" (2.5cm)) wide fold up hem allowance.  If you would like to increase the forward pitch, make sure to read next week's blog.  As you will see in making this change, the hem will curve meaning it would need to be hemmed with a shaped facing.

In closing, this article offers a lot of information and food for thought on the topic of set-in sleeves.  My intention in offering this to you is not to overwhelm, but rather to give you facts that may pertain to you that will enhance your personalized sleeve fit.

Happy Sewing!
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

Made in a Day!

WELCOME...Made in a Day!

I'm opening up a new page in this blog called Made in a Day.  You'll see this page on the top navigation bar immediately to the right of the Home button. The garments you'll see featured are ones that could generally be easily made in a day.

I know some of you sew faster than others.  I know we often have unforeseen 'oopses' that take longer than we wish they would to correct.  And I know that many of you due to family and work commitments don't have a full day to devote to any project, much less a sewing project.  But all things considered, the projects you'll see will all be ones that could be made in a day under ideal circumstances.

Simple to design...simple to sew...that's the objective.  There are all kinds of designs already offered within the Sure-Fit Designs instructional materials and information that would fall into this category.  So for those of you who are either new to sewing or new to designing and sewing your own garments, these suggestions would be excellent starting options.

Sometimes there might be a Fashion Leaflet that shows you how to design/sew the item.  Sometimes the project will already be featured in one of the kit instruction books or in one of the designing books (Pants that Mix n Multiply or Beyond Bodice Basics or Sew Sensational Shirts).  Sometimes I might have produced a video for your instructions.  Other times, it might just be instructions within the blog.  One way or the other, you should be able to access enough information to make the project.

You'll be able to recognize the project by the new logo 'Made in a Day'.

I'd love to hear what you think of this idea, so please use the comment box below and let me know what you think.

And for those of you who have your own blog, please feel free to share this SFD 'Made in a Day' page with them...the more the merrier!

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!
P.S.  I'd love to know what sewing projects you've made in a day (or ones that would fall into this category).  And I'd love to see your photos.

My Goodness...Gudrun's Collection

My goodness, our sewing friend from Germany has been on a binge...a sewing binge!

Gudrun has combined both Dress/Bodice fit and Shirt kit comfort in her selection of tops to wear with her perfect fitting and comfortable Yoga pants.

The latest Asymmetrical T-Shirt design (see Downloadable Fashion Leaflets) is quick and easy to design and sew. For this T-Shirt as well as for the Detachable Collar Overblouse (Sew Sensational Shirts) (see her green blouse above), she combined her Dress Kit bodice by transferring the bust dart down into the waist fitting dart, and then drew the design details from the pattern instructions. So whether you want the more fitted sleeve and underarm from the Dress Kit bodice pattern, or the looser, deeper armscye from the Shirt Kit, you can see these instructions for the Asymmetrical T-Shirt can be versatile and go either way.

Her second version of the Asymmetrical T-Shirt was sewn from a type of silk jersey, which stretched in all directions and was slippery and slithery.

And since 'challenge' was the mother of invention, instead of pleats which simply wouldn't drape well, she traded the pleats for gathers, and replaced the facings with self-binding.  The result? Well...a slightly different look, but she says 'I like it and it already has passed the wearing test'.


Here's my version of the Asymmetrical T-Shirt designed from the Shirt Kit.

Thanks for sharing your projects.  You all like to see what other have accomplished with their SFD patterns, so please send your photos directly to me at info@surefitdesigns.com.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

Jan's Jeans

Was Jan ever fast!  When I first announced the new Jeans DVD - barely 2 weeks ago, Jan (from the UK) ordered immediately.  Delivery to the UK must have been extraordinarily fast because just yesterday Jan sent me photos, not only of her test jeans, but also of her finished jeans.  She is one happy camper!

These tie dye jeans are the initial 'test'.

 Jan says that the tie dye jeans were meant to be a cheap test garment - only
£2 a metre (about $3) from the local market so the pockets aren't top stitched and she didn't do a yoke at the back - which is exactly what I suggest you do for the test.

 From the test pair, Jan sewed the striped jeans.  She says 'I did improve the fit on the striped pair and I am so pleased with them.  The pockets were made with a sheet I bought from a local charity shop, again with the intention of using it as a muslin test...but it works!!!'

Here's a close-up of both the back and front pocket detail.

Jan, you have done a wonderful job and so quickly.  You are an inspiration!

And on another note...when Jan first got her 3-Kit Combo, she was inspired by some of the ideas presented in the Sure-Fit Designs instruction books and came up with this lovely blouse.  She'd bought 10 lovely buttons for a basic shirt.  But as the ideas swirled in her mind, she ended up using most of the buttons on the cuffs of the bishop style sleeve and so had to rethink the front and had a go at the hidden placket (from Sew Sensational Shirts).  Jan says it worked extremely well and surprisingly easy considering she is a beginner.  Jan shared her age with me (which I won't post), but adds that you're never too old to start learning a new skill.  She is enjoying this whole process immensely and wishes she'd begun long ago.

It's hard to believe Jan considers herself a beginner.  She's done a great job of this hidden placket.

Thanks so much for sharing your accomplishments Jan!