Identify Common Hip Shapes and why the Sure-Fit Designs™ Pants Pattern w...

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I thought you would like to see one of our latest videos.  We are re-doing some of the very first and very old videos and updating them with new information.  I'll post more as they become available.

I hope you enjoy this latest video on identifying your hip shape and how the Sure-Fit Designs Pants pattern will accommodate all shapes and circumferences.

What shape are you?  Click on the forward arrow below on the video.


Happy Fitting & Sewing!
Glenda...the Good Stitch

Oh My! Leggings Again!

"A Legging to Stand On - Often dismissed as a faux pas, the body-hugging not-quite-pants are being recast (and embraced) by the high-fashion set"-  so says, Nandini D'Souza Wolfe in the Saturday/Sunday, August 20-21, 2016 Style and Fashion article of the Wall Street Journal.

With big names like Valentino, Victoria Beckham and Celine sporting leggings on the runway, its easy to see that leggings are not just part of the fitness craze, but a bold fashion statement that can be worn anywhere from in the gym, to a night on the town.

Velvet, faux leather and stretchy nylon are just a few types of fabrics being used to transform everyday workout leggings into fancy pants. Add some zippers at the ankles, some sequins if that's your thing, don your favorite blazer and you're good to go. I absolutely love the leggings I made from Nicole Miller Scuba Knit fabric, see this previous blog.

Notice the title - TIGHT DONE RIGHT - Consider these outfits for fashion inspiration with leggings:

And...notice the prices of these ready-to-wear leggings.  Aren't we lucky we know how to sew?

If you missed the leggings video on designing the no-side seam leggings, you can watch it now.

It looks like love 'em, or hate 'em leggings are here to stay. And why not? They are comfortable, allow for plenty of movement, flattering on a variety of body shapes and depending on the fabric and the rest of the chosen attire, can be worn most anywhere for almost any occasion and for any season of the year. Once you've made your body blueprint with the Sure-Fit Designs Pants Master Pattern, you can have a pair of leggings sewn up in no time. And for the actual leggings instructions, you can find this Fashion Leaflet as a digital download on this page.  They fold or roll up so nicely in a drawer, you'll have plenty of room to make 3, 4 or even ten pair!

Happy Fitting & Sewing!

Skinny Stretch Pants

Not leggings...but simple skinny-legged pants sewn with a 4-way stretch heavy weight Ponte.
These were so super simple that I wanted to share the leg width change with you.

If you're wondering how much I skinny'd (if there is such a word) the legs, on my personal SFD Pants pattern blueprint with a low hip circumference of 36" the actual (master pattern) width of the front of the page leg is 7.5".  So, first of all I sized down 1/4" on each side - that removed 1/2", which left 7".  This removed ease to allow for the horizontal stretch factor of the Ponte.  Then for the front leg pattern hem width, I took it down to a finished width of 5.5".  Yup...that's right, I removed another 1.5" totally, which was 3/4" on each side.

For the back leg, the actual hem width, based on my 36" hip, is 9".  Remove 1/4" on each side for the stretch factor - this leaves you with 8.5".  The the final width of this skinny leg is 7.5".  That means I took off another 1/2" per side (or 1" more).

Even though this was a 4-way stretch fabric, it was too heavy for skin-tight leggings, nor did I want them as tight as leggings.

To help you out, there is also a free video in the Learning Center on how to narrow the leg width of your pants pattern.  You can go to http://www.sfdlearningcenter.com/Video_Library.html and look for Pants video P.6.11 How To Narrow the Pant Leg  
You can also find this on YouTube.  It should pop up here if you're reading this blog in your computer, tablet or smart phone.

To finish the waist edge of the pants, they are pull-on with 2" wide elastic.  Directions are in the bonus section for the Yoga Pants in the pants designing book - Pants that Mix n Multiply.

Have fun...enjoy your pants pattern.

Upper thigh Dart/Wedge: A Way to Help Remove Under-the-Butt Wrinkles

If you have baggies under your backside, there are a number of alternatives for removing them.  This accompanying photo is a little on the grainy side (sorry) but it does show you what this situation might look like.

Horizontal Upper Thigh Dart/Wedge

This refinement may help your situation.  Pinch out an pin a dart/wedge from the upper, inner thigh on both front and back going to nothing at the side seam.  You have to do this on front and back so that the inseams remain the same length.

Try the pants on.  If this helps, then baste this dart in place and try them on once more.  If you're satisfied with the result, then follow these instructions to make this change on your pants blueprint.

1.  Draw a line perpendicular to the straight of grain from the inseam to the side seam.

2.  Cut from the inseam to the side seam, leaving a paper hinge at the side seam.  Overlap to remove the width of the dart/wedge.

True the inseam.

Redraw the straight of grain from the leg upward.

3.  Even though this process does not change the length of CF or CB crotch curves, it does tilt them.  If you do this on a grid/grain board, you will be able to determine the amount of the tilt.

Cut this amount off CB and add it back on to side back.  Do the same for CF.

This will straighten the CF, CB and side seams to their original positions.

Revised Muslin Test

Needless to say you will need to sew a test with these changes incorporated.  You may need to adjust the direction of the darts as well as evaluate how the waist edge is now sitting on your body.

Alternative Tune-Ups 

For other tune-up alternatives, see:

1.  Pants Kit Instruction Book - page 15#11

2. Video - P.6.4 Minor Tune-Up - the Flat Backside 

3.  Video - P.6.5  Drawing a Fish-Eye Dart in Pants Back for a Flat Backside

Happy Sewing,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

Adapting and Drawing the Pants Front Waist/Crotch Grid for a Thick Waist and a Relatively Short Front Crotch Length

If you have a fairly short front crotch length measurement and you have a relatively thick waist, when drawing the pants pattern, you may find that your numbers 'fall off the Master Pattern Grid lines'.  This situation may occur when you are establishing the intersecting point for your waist measurement and front crotch length measurement on the Pants Front Waist/Crotch Grid.  In other words, the grid lines stop before your two numbers of waist measurement and front crotch length measurement have a chance to intersect.  These photos show and example of the type of body shape where this may occur.

 If this occurs, simply extend your appropriate grid lines straight down.  The waist measurement line (attached to your waist measurement number) will be drawn straight down.  The front crotch length measurement number will be extended downward but continuing on in its current angle and slope.

See the example diagram below where the person's waist measurement is 46" (116.6cm) and the front crotch length is 11 1/2" (29.2 cm).  Note how these lines have been extended and shown in continuous RED lines.  The BLUE dot represents where the two lines intersect.  This is where you would mark your placement dot for your CF waist measurement.  This dot, of course, would then connect (in either a straight or curved line) to your front side waist measurement dot.  And you would then continue to proceed to mark in your Dart tip and then your Front Crotch Pt. #1 and Pt. #2.  These steps are found in your Pants Kit instruction book, page 9, steps 9 and 10.

 Fine Tuning Your Pattern's Crotch Lengths - if Necessary

Once you have drawn your Back and Front Crotch lengths, also make sure you measure the finished lengths.  Since you are measuring a curve, remember to stand the tape measure on edge and walk the tape around the stitching line to ensure accurate length measurements.  The instructions and illustrations for this step are found in your Pants Kit instruction book on page 10, #13 - Fine Tuning Crotch Lengths.

Glenda...the Good Stitch!

Comfortable Culottes

Yes, that's right, culottes are back.  Some never really stopped wearing them, simply because they are so comfortable, but now they are officially back.

 I first read this article in the Style & Travel section of the Wall Street Journal (by Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan), but in doing research about culottes and their comeback, my guess is that it's appeared in other publications.  She says that they're back in a big way for the first time since the 1980's.  You all know that if we wait long enough, the fashion cycle just goes round and round.

This style typically features a  wide, and often voluminous leg that extends from a cinched waistline.  The hem can be anywhere from an inch below the knee to a couple of inches above the ankle.  What makes them so comfortable is that for a really good fit that doesn't bind and pull in the crotch, the crotch point needs to be dropped and extended.  The hang of the leg improves, they won't crawl up between your thighs, and they can give the look of a drapy skirt.

The photo below shows culottes that I designed and sewed for an article featured in Dressmaking with Stitches (an Australian publication).  Of course, the cross-over wrap blouse is also an SFD creation designed and sewn from the Dress Kit.

What to consider when wearing culottes?  Well obviously your height and shape make a difference.  Here are 5 tips that I'll share with you from the article.

• Shorter women will no doubt need heels (shoes or boots) with culottes; taller ladies can wear flats, sandals or fancy sneakers.

• Keep the top slimmed down if you have particularly voluminous legs.

• For evening wear, choose a dressier fabric like silk, or drapy polyesters.

• High-waisted culottes are the most flattering; low-waisted versions can make you look short legged.

• For fall and winter, turtlenecks and knee-high boots work best.

• Steer clear of fabrics that are too stretchy or clingy (such as jersey).

Here's a few of the featured culottes and though I'm not excited about the ones with the hemline boarder trim, they do show you alternative examples.

From InsideOutStyleBlog.com (Imogen Lamport) (who I've recommended many times for dressing for your body shape), she's just written a recent blog on how to dress and accessorize when wearing culottes.  Make sure you take a look at her blog since she offers lots of great photos and excellent accessorizing alternatives. (PS - I should also mention that Sure-Fit Designs is not associated with InsideOutStyleBlog in an way either for personal or business relationships.  I simply happen to believe that Imogen does an excellent job of all the information she presents on her blog).

And, aren't we lucky that with SFD, we don't have to rely on ill-fitting ready-to-wear.  We can sew our own and know they'll fit properly.  Fashion Leaflet #2 gives you all the details you need to design your own from your SFD Pants pattern.  Click Here.

You can choose this version with a 'gaucho' style of leg treatment, or the directions will also tell you how to add a pleat that drapes directly out of center front.  Either way, you win with comfort and fashion.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

A BIG Thank you!

  What's in the blog?

1. A big, big thank you!
2. Narrowing the Pants Leg
3. Your favorite sewing notion

A Great Big Thanks

Glenda the Good Stitch is saying many, many thanks to all of you who took the time to complete the survey questions from last week.  Wow!  Did you ever provide lots of food for thought and great topics for the Good Stitch to discuss in the coming weeks and months.

I generally don't repeat blog information very often, but we've had an influx of new SFD followers, and obviously they don't all know what you might know.

Narrowing the Pants Leg

One respondent asked about the leg width of the SFD Pants pattern.  She said that due to her larger hip circumference, when the pants pattern was said and done, she felt the leg width was too wide.  Even though the leg width doesn't grade out as wide as was needed for the hip circumference, for her height, she wanted the leg narrower.  Personal preference comes into play her, as some ladies might say the leg width was just fine.

So here's a video showing you how to narrow the leg.  It's very simple to do as long as you keep the amount removed basically the same on the inseam and side seam.

I often get asked how long the pant length should be.  First, it all depends on the height of heel you'll be wearing with that particular style of pants.  Generally, the higher the heel height the longer the pant length. 

In addition to heel height, you also need to think about hem circumference.  Here's a little rule of thumb for the length and circumference of the hem:  The skinnier/narrower the width of the pants leg (like in skinny jeans), the shorter the pant length should likely be.  The wider the circumference of the pant hem (as in flared leg pants), the longer the pant leg should likely be.

Once again, for those of you how are relatively new to Sure-Fit Designs and may not be aware of all the educational resources we offer, make sure you spend some time in the SFD Learning Center Video Library.

Your Most Favorite and Useful Sewing Notion??

And on a totally different topic, please use the comment box below to tell me the most important (sewing) notion you'd simply never want to be without when garment sewing.

Thanks so much,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

Cropped Leg Pants Continued

Remember last week I showed you the easy jeans-style inset pocket?  Well this week I must do a quick review of the seam down the center of the back pant leg.  Even though I typically don't put this seam down the back leg of my pants pattern, I decided to for these cropped leg pants.

This seam really can make a big difference to the fit.  For those of you with a flat butt or for the larger backside in relation to relatively thin legs, this seam is a life-saver!  Team that up with a horizontal fish-eye dart and you've got a winner.

Now...once the seam is down the center of the back pants leg, then I also incorporated a small horizontal fish-eye dart.

Here's a close-up.

 

I think you can see the seam a little better in this close-up.  The fabric has kind of a waffle-like texture and honestly, the seam just simply gets lost.

Once you've refined your personal pants blueprint to include this seam and the horizontal fish-eye dart, just use your pattern over and over again.  Two extra seams takes no time at all to sew.  Just change the style of waist edge treatment, the opening details, width of leg and finished length - they all will give you satisfaction.

I should mention that because this was a stretch-woven fabric, I chose to finish the waist with 2" (5 cm) wide elastic.  They are totally pull-on because the fabric had enough stretch to pull up over my hips.  Actually, this pattern is a combination of the yoga/travel/comfort pants from Pants that Mix n Multiply and the easy jeans-style inset pocket from your SFD Pants Kit instruction book.

Here's the video on how to draw the horizontal fish-eye dart in the back leg of your pants pattern.
It's not too long.  Please take a look if you haven't watched it before.

If you so choose, when you're sewing this center leg seam, leave a 4" or 5" slit/vent open at the hem level.  Yes, you are emphasizing the seam, but now the design all looks like an intended variation.

Have fun and enjoy the fit!

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

Easy Front Inset Pocket in a Stretch-Woven Cropped Pant

I was given a remnant of fabric - just enough to sew a pair of cropped pants with an easy front inset pocket.  Since it was a stretch-woven, I did size down my body blueprint 1 measurement dot.  This seemed like enough at the time, but as can happen with stretch knits and stretch-woven fabric, I still basted the seams first - did a try-on - and ended up slimming the hip line even a little more.  You just never know how much it's going to give and how it's going to feel on your body.

Always do a stretch test by picking up 10" on the crosswise grain and stretch it comfortably.  This stretched up to 13" meaning it's a moderate stretch knit.  It should only need to be sized down one dot, but what this doesn't account for is the fabric's ability to rebound or recover.  This particular piece didn't have great recovery.

Now on to the easy inset pocket in the pants front.  The upper and under pocket is all one piece of fabric.

Then you fold the pocket lining - in this case - the beige fabric - up so that the lower cut edge meets back up at the waistline.

If you'd made the pocket lining out of the same fashion fabric, then you would not need to face the 'under' pocket.  But that's not always suitable or practical if the fashion fabric is too heavy.  In this instance, the next step was to cut a shaped facing piece and sew it on to the right side of the waist edge of the under pocket lining.

 

You can also see that the inside edge(s) of the pocket bag have been sewn/serged together.  (Likely best to sew the topstitching on the pocket opening before sewing this inside bag seam).

 

Topstitch the pocket opening if you wish.  Then with the pocket in position, baste through the pocket bag and the side seam and the upper pocket edge to the pants front at the waist edge to hold it in place during the remainder of the construction steps.

This very easy pocket designing and sewing technique is found on page 22 & 23 of your Sure-Fit Designs Pants Kit Instruction Book. It's a Jeans style of pocket without the fuss of a separate upper and under pocket.  If you haven't yet, try it to see just how easy it is.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

Tying it all Together

Sometimes it's difficult for some of you to visualize taking an idea from 'here' and mixing it with an instruction from 'there', then adding a little something extra from 'where'. As so many of you know, the Sure-Fit Designs system is not just a fitting system. It also offers all kinds of written instructions and video information on not just fitting, but on designing with your body blueprint (sloper) once you have it completed.

For those of you who follow this Sure-Fit Designs blog, you know that the last few blogs have been on pocket types, applications and sewing technique. As I was preparing the sample photos on drawing and stitching the double welt pocket, I also happened to be at our local JoAnn's (and almost one and only fabric store in Eugene, Or) I came across this novelty stretch bottom weight. I loved it immediately and thought of pants with a welt pocket in the back.

Next step was tying it all together. What style of pants did I want? Since the fabric had about 3 - 4% Spandex, even though it was a woven fabric, I knew it would give when wearing. Skinny came to mind. Jeans came to mind. But I didn't want traditional jeans with the fly front and typical pockets. I wanted to show you the welt pocket.

Here's what I tied together:

My jeans pattern - since wearing ease had already been removed. (Jeans: Behind the Scenes on DVD)

Style #1 - Flared Leg Pants - Elasticized Waist edge from Pants that Mix n Multiply. Though I didn't want flared legs. I wanted skinny all the way to the hem. What I wanted was the side seam invisible zipper and the elastic turned over waist edge.

Blog instructions for the Double Welt Pocket (from last week).

Now for the finished photos:

The double welt pocket.

The invisible zipper and elastic waist edge.

The finished ensemble:

Brown/black leopard-skin patterned fabric for the pants. I guess they could have been tighter but considering I never wear anything skin tight they suited my preferences...and they're totally comfortable. The blouse and jacket is from the SFD Shirt Kit pattern. The blouse has a shawl collar. You'll find directions for this collar on page 44 of the Dress Kit Instruction book. The jacket has a lapel collar and is sewn from a cotton chintz. I love this classic jacket! I've worn it for years and it still looks fine. That's one thing about choosing classic designs - good, bad or boring... they go forever. Remember Chanel...the Chanel jacket...they're still selling it...and you're still sewing it. Yeah!!! for classic designs.
Kindly,
Glenda
PS. I'm going to sew another top for these pants.  I've got the fabric.  It's a really nice cool (colored) brown sport knit.  Now I just need to find the time!

Next installment...I found the time to design and sew the Asymmetrical Pleated T-Shirt from the SFD Shirt Kit.  The directions for this comfy T-Shirt are found in the downloadable Fashion Leaflets.  Click Here if you're interested.