Showing posts with label Tank Top Design. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tank Top Design. Show all posts

Jan 9, 2018

Gosh, darn Pilly Ponte

www.surefitdesigns.com

I do love Ponte Roma, but the surface sure does pill.  What is Ponte and why does it pill?

Ponte Roma, originally from Italy (hence the name) is a double knit which is constructed with interlocking stitches that connect the front and back surfaces - like a Roman bridge. Now the term is used generically for double knits in a variety of weights, fiber content and cost from very spendy to low price.

I recommend my Fit & Sew Retreat students bring Ponte Roma for their yoga pants projects.  It's an ideal beginner's knit if the student has never sewn with knits before.  It's stable, the edges don't roll.  It's smooth and resilient.  And best of all, it feels oh so comfortable on.  It can come with either a 2 or 4 way stretch.  The lighter weight ponte is great for tops, skirts and dresses.  Whereas the heavier weight is wonderful for pants and skirts.  In the photo below, the pants are of a heavier, 4-way stretch ponte which is simply perfect for our winter weather.



This photo is of 4 students in our recent Nov 2107 Retreat who completed their 'Yoga Pants' project - all sewn with Ponte Roma.


So with all these wonderful properties why does it pill?  After 4-5 washings it can look like they been worn for years.  Such a shame.  Often times the pontes with a high percentage of polyester pill.  But I've also found that a ponte with rayon can also pill.  Some experts say the ideal fiber content is rayon/nylon/lycra.  Generally, nylon is an indication of quality.  Nylon fibers will add to the luxurious feel of smoothness against the skin.

But why does it pill?  It's not only the fiber content, but the way the yarn is made and processed.  To make a polyester yarn soft, the original smooth extruded fiber is cut into short lengths and spun into yarn.  The yarn is then constructed into fabric and in the case of ponte, is made into a double knit.  Because the polyester synthetic yarns are so strong, when they are rubbed, tiny elements of those short fibers pop out from the yarn and form pills along the surface.

What can you do about this?  Sorry...not much.  You can brush the pills gone.  Wawak sells a tailor's brush that looks like this.

And you can always use a sweater shaver.  But no matter which tool you use to remove the pills, unfortunately they will still come back with wear and washing.  Oh...so sad.

But this hasn't stopped me from sewing up at least 8 pairs of yoga pants in various leg shapes.  I simply love the feel of ponte on and as I said earlier, this fabric is so easy to sew with.

The first photo shows an entire outfit sewn with ponte.  The Yoga Pants instructions are found in our pants designing book - Pants that Mix n Multiply.  The top is the Caprezio top with complete directions from our Caprezio Top Sew Along.
The second photo features more of a flared leg pant style, though still from the Yoga Pants directions in Pants that Mix n Multiply.  And there are shown with the Cargo jacket (directions in this digital Fashion Leaflet) and a simply tank top underneath.

And last, but certainly not least, here is Anna, our Canadian Sure-Fit Designs distributor wearing her ponte Yoga pants which she sewed during her training Retreat.



Happy fitting and sewing...
Glenda the Good Stitch!


Sep 19, 2017

Canary Yellow Princess Seam Pants

www.surefitdesigns.blogspot.com

Before summer was totally over, my intention was to sew up this BRIGHT patterned fabric into a pair of princess seam pants...and they're done!  Let's take a look.

 The Front...

 The Side...

The Back...

Since the floral pattern kind of camouflages the princess seam up the center of the back leg, here's a close up view.

The princess seam gives you an opportunity to sew shaping into the back of your pants and anyone with a flat butt will really appreciate this design and fitting feature.  Even ladies with larger hips in relation to thin legs, the princess line really helps to shape the back of the pant leg to your body contours.

Here's a video on how to add the princess seam to your pant leg: 
In case you're not able to see this video in your email software, here's the YouTube link



The instructions for drawing and sewing this style of pant is actually found in the designing book - Pants that Mix n Multiply.  It's Style #1.  I love this waistband treatment - it's just 1" wide non-roll elastic turned to the inside.  They have an invisible zipper and an inside button tab.  It's so comfortable to wear.  I designed a much skinnier leg style than what is shown in Pants that Mix n Multiply, but that's just a matter of narrowing the leg (and we have a free video showing how to do this.  Just go to www.SFDLearningCenter.com to the Video Library - look in the Pants Videos for P.6.11 - How to Narrow the Pant Leg).


After narrowing the leg, I added short vents at the hem.  For any really skinny pants, they help to get the hem opening over your ankle.


Those of you ladies who are attending the upcoming September Fit & Sew Retreat will see me wearing these pants...oh what to wear on top?  When I bought this pants fabric, I chose a complimentary royal blue knit for a wrap crossover top.
So far, that's as far as I've gotten - draping it on the mannequin.  When I was going through my fabric stash (for something else), I came upon a soft yellow knit that I'd originally used for the Waterfall Jacket.  The soft yellow was just perfect to compliment the bright yellow in the pants.  And since I didn't have time to sew the blue top too, I chose to use a tried and true pattern - my Center Front Gathered Tank Top.


You'll find complete directions for this Tank Top on this Digital Fashion Leaflet.  And the directions for the Waterfall Jacket are on this Digital Fashion Leaflet.
And for those of you who might be reading this blog for the first time, all of our current Digital Fashion Leaflets are found on this page.

Try back leg princess seams in your pants for enhancing the fit under the butt...this really does work!

Happy Sewing!
Glenda the Good Stitch
 

Oct 25, 2016

Look Ma...No Hem!

Remember last week I introduced you to the new Waterfall Jacket Fashion Leaflet?  I had plenty of fabric to sew a coordinating tank top to go with it.



The fabric was really interesting as you could use either the right or the wrong side as the finished right side.



 
And the selvage?  Well...it was like a mini-fringe.  It was so interesting that I decided to use it as the hem of the tank top as well as on the diagonal decorative seam.


When laying out the pattern, it meant that the straight of grain line would be PERPENDICULAR to the selvage, not parallel as in a traditional layout.  And I added the diagonal seam going from the right armhole to the lower left side seam.  I wanted the pattern to meet at basically a 45 degree angle when the diagonal seam was sewn.  And yes, I laid the upper bodice over the lower front bodice rather than sewing a traditional seam where right sides are together.  I wanted that fringy selvage to be the decorative element on the front of the tank.

This design was fraught with a few challenges, as when the pattern was laid on perpendicular to the selvage, I discovered that it was not knit on the straight of grain so to speak.  It was knit crooked.  This next photo shows that with the selvages edges together, the fold it created was not totally on grain. 


This meant that the back of the tank hangs a little wonky, but I was willing to live with that so that I could use the fringy selvage at the hem line.


For the bust dart, I simply left it in its original side seam position.  If you want, you could transfer it to the lower side seam but I didn't want it to conflict with the decorative diagonal front seam.


Lastly, I trimmed the neckline and armholes with bias binding cut from the same stretchy fabric, but used the wrong side as the outside for emphasis.

All up, it turned out great.  The General Tank Top directions are basically all that's needed to design this tank from your Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit.  If you don't already have them, please CLICK HERE.

In case you missed last week's blog on the new downloadable Waterfall Jacket Fashion Leaflet, here's what it looks like with this coordinating tank top underneath.


This tank top is definitely a 'Made in a Day' project.
Enjoy!

Jul 12, 2016

Love my Summery Top!

If you remember a few posts ago, I showed you the skinny, cropped leg pants I sewed in a white stretch denim.  Well, I finally found a day to sew this comfy top to go with them.  This top is definitely a draft and Made in a Day project.  (PS That's fragrant star jasmine in the background.)



The fabric I choose was a Nicole Miller colorful knit.  I just loved the colors and the bold summery pattern.

It was is a 2-way stretch knit - meaning it stretches both horizontally and vertically.

To test the stretch of the knit, pick up 10"  and stretch comfortably.  The first photo shows 10" from 'pinch to pinch' in a horizontal (crosswise) direction.  The second photo shows it stretching easily to 13".  This qualifies as a Limited to Moderate stretch knit.  Therefore I sized my pattern down 1 dot.


This fabric also has vertical stretch.  See both the following photos where you can see that I'm now doing the stretch test parallel to the selvage (meaning vertical stretch).  10" stretches comfortably to 14".  So this means I sized down 1 measurement dot ALL THE WAY AROUND THE ENTIRE PATTERN.

Because the fabric was so stretchy, I definitely used fusible stay tape on the shoulder seams.  You can see I used Emma Seabrooke's Stay Tape.



For the design of the top, I used a combination of the diagonal hem Tank Top (which you can find on this page - http://www.surefitdesigns.com/DigitalE-Goods.html ) and moved the bust dart down into the waist fitting dart as is shown for the High/Low Hemmed Swing Top which is on page 38 of the 6th edition Dress Kit Instruction book.

What I did differently?  I scooped the neck only 2" at CF and I didn't add the extra flare at CF or the side seams of the High/Low Hemmed Swing Top.  The sleeve is a slim, 3/4 length sleeve from the Dress Kit Sleeve for Stretchy/Knit fabrics.

 And, in case you like the asymmetrical side seam lengths on my 5'4" tall body, the short side measures 16" long and the longer side measures 24" long finished.

The pattern was drawn and fabric cut out in the morning.  The entire top was sewn in the afternoon.  It really does qualify for a Made in a Day project.

 Happy Sewing!