10 Steps for Sewing Success...says the Good Stitch!

Start your New Year with my 10 Steps to Sewing Success!

Have you ever wondered why your sewing projects just don't quite the way you hoped they would?  It just might be that one of these steps or tips could help change the course of your final outcome.

1. Grainline matter!  Knowing that the fabric lengthwise grainline is parallel to the selvage and that the lengthwise grainline marking on the pattern must be completely parallel to the selvage is step #1.  I've seen too many simply 'eye ball' it when laying out a pattern.  It's important to measure from one end of the grainline arrow to the selvage and from the other end of the grainline arrow to the selvage.  These distances must be the same.  If not, cutting 'off grain' can cause the finished garment to hang crooked.

2. When cutting out the pattern, especially when you use fabric shears, keep the blade as close to the table or cutting mat as possible.  When you lift the fabric for the cut, you can shift the position of the fabric.  That's why you'll often see me using a rotary cutter when cutting out pattern pieces.  I use my fabric shears in tight to cut curves and for cutting out notches.

3.  When cutting the pattern, pay attention to the actual cutting line for the seam allowance.  The standard seam allowance is 5/8" (1.6cm) wide.  I have seen this cut as wide as 3/4" and as narrow as 1/2".  When this happens it totally throws off the intended fit of the garment.  Please pay close attention to this detail.

4. Begin each project with a new sewing machine needle.  I know you think that if it's not broken it can be used again...and again...and again.  And pretty soon you forget how many projects that poor old needle has sewn for you.  I know some folks say change the needle every 2 or 4 projects, but to be on the safe side, make it a habit to insert a new needle for every project.  Over used needles can result in poor tension, blunt/dull ends, or have burrs that catch the fabric.

5.  And speaking of needles, make sure you use the appropriate needle for your selected fabric.  When working with knits, generally a ball point needle will be best.  When working with denim, go for a heavy duty denim size of needle.  But definitely have on hand lots of Universal needles in varying sizes.  Universal needles will sew a lot of different fabric types.

6.  Make sure to use a specialty sewing machine foot for specialty tasks like using a zipper foot for regular zipper installations or an invisible zipper foot when inserting an invisible zipper.  If you prefer machine hemming, consider using a blind hem foot.  Buttonholes always require a specialty foot.  Be aware of the machine feet that come with your sewing machine and use them for their intended purpose.

7. Slow down!  Please don't sew too fast particularly if you're a beginner seamstress.  Develop a nice comfortable speed where you can successfully guide the fabric under the presser foot.  Trying to race through a project will usually result in seams that need to be ripped out and no time at all being saved.

8.  Along with not sewing too fast...make sure you are sewing with accurate seam allowance widths.  In #3 above, I've said to cut accurately on the seam cutting line.  The same holds true for stitching the seam allowance width as accurately as possible.  A 5/8" seam allowance really does mean 5/8" wide - not 1/2" or 3/4" wide.  If sewn too narrow the garment can feel looser than intended and if sewn too wide the resulting fit can be tighter than it should be.

9.  Press, press, press during construction.  I'm sure you've all heard the phrase - 'press as you sew'.  Typically you want to press a seam or a dart before it is crossed or attached to another seam.  Pressing in a one dimensional state is far easier than when the garment is completed in its 3 dimensional form.

10.  And last but certainly not least is to press with the correct pressing aids.  Tools like a Tailor's Ham, Seam Roll, Sleeve board and press cloth are just as essential as a good steam iron.

And if you're new to sewing or perhaps an intermediate seamstress returning to garment construction after an hiatus, the latest DVD production from Glenda the Good Stitch (Sure-Fit Designs), is our Make It Sew Beginner's Series (4 DVD set).  To see details of the lessons contained over 4 DVD's, please click here.

Happy Sewing!

Peter Pan Collar Application

Collars are often a prominent focal point in a blouse, dress or jacket.  To avoid that 'home-made' look, there are some internal steps that should be completed to avoid curled edges and a collar, particularly a Peter Pan collar, that won't otherwise lay flat.  Cutting the upper collar a hair wider than the under collar, interfacing the under collar, clipping and notching the seams, all play an important roll in a professional result.

Step 1:
Staystitch neck edge of bodice before attaching collar.

Step 2:
Cut upper and under collar pieces.  The upper collar needs to be slightly larger (1/8") than the under collar to ensure that it rolls correctly.  Heavy fabric may need more than 1/8" ease.

Step 3:
Cut one pattern piece of iron on interfacing using the under collar pattern.  Do not include seam allowances on the interfacing.

Step 4:
Apply interfacing to the wrong side of the under collar.


Step 5:
Since the upper collar is slightly larger, pin upper collar to under collar, easing the upper collar slightly around the outer edge.  This will allow the upper collar piece to roll smoothly.

Step 6:
With right sides together, stitch upper collar to under collar leaving the inner neck edge open.  Stitch from center out to front, first on one side, then on the other.  This prevents the ease from shifting.

Step 7:
To encourage the edge of the collar to lay flat, trim the under collar seam to 1/4" and the upper collar seam to 3/8". 

Step 8:
Around the outside curve, snip the edges every 1/4".  Turn right side out and press, slightly rolling the upper collar seam to the underside about 1/16".  This way it will not be visible on the  outside edge.

Step 9:
Baste raw edges together on inner edge. If desired edge stitching or top stitching can be done at this time-before attaching to garment.   

Step 10:
Pin collar to neck edge right sides together matching centers and notch3es.  Attach by sewing from center back toward the front.  First one side, then the other.

Happy Sewing!

Zipper Scratchies!

Protect yourself from those darn 'zipper scratchies'!

Sometimes when wearing a garment with an invisible zipper, the end of it - where the zipper stops - can be rough and scratchy.  Here's a quick tip on how to cover that end before you insert the zipper.

1. Use a soft, yet dense enough strip of fabric like cotton interlock.  Cut the strip 1" (2.5 cm) by about 2 1/4" (5.8 cm) wide.

2.  Lay this strip on the right side of the zipper tape with the cut edge almost on the end of the zipper.  Stitch directly beneath the zipper stop across the width of the zipper.

 3.  Trim some of the strip to remove excess bulk.

 4.  Fold the fabric strip around to the wrong side of the zipper wrapping/enclosing the ends of the zipper tape.

5.  Then from the right side, stitch in the ditch, sewing through all layers to secure it in position.

6.  Proceed with the normal application instructions to insert an invisible zipper.

...And on the inside, it looks like this...

This soft, little piece of fabric protects you from the 'zipper scratchies'.  It's a quick little technique.  Give it a try the next time you apply an invisible zipper.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

Squishy, Spongy, Stretchy!

Topstitching a fabric that is squishy, spongy and stretchy is no fun!  And on top of that, the fabric I was using was a leather-like stretch, which meant once the needle pierced the fabric, it left distinctive holes.  And on top of this, the fabric would not press flat, which made it very difficult when turning and pressing seams.  No second chances on this project!

Here's what the finished jacket looks like.

It's a Sure-Fit Designs knock-off of a jacket I saw in NYC.  Exposed zippers are ever so popular.

Mine of course, being all black, doesn't have quite the bizazz appeal like the black & white ready-to-wear, but it's still a stunning jacket.  And the SFD version does have a shoulder yoke - just not as deep in toward the armscye area.

This blog is going to focus only on the topstitching process and tips that I'd like to share with you if you ever come across this type of situation.  Since I knew I had one chance only to get it right, meaning evenly spaced, straight, no skipped stitches and no puckers, testing prior to the final topstitching was definitely required.

Yup!  This fabric is great to look at, but it sure did have it's challenges.  It just simply wouldn't feed well when the leathery side is face up.  I'd purchased both a solid black as well as a perforated patterned piece.  I got them both in the Stretch House during my NYC excursion.

I combined both these fabrics in this jacket.  With a traditional seam, if right sides were being sewn together, it wasn't a problem, but if you needed to topstitch...well - watch out!  It has kind of a leather-like look and a little bit of a sticky feel.

The feed dogs didn't like it.  The walking foot didn't help feed the under and upper layers equally.  Perhaps a roller foot would have worked, but since I didn't have that machine attachment another solution needed to be found.

After much testing, I settled on a paper-like tear-away stabilizer.  I had 3 different ones to test and ended up using this Sulky Tear-Away.  It's years old and I'm sure the price is more than  $1.99 now, but for this project, it worked the best.

What did I test before sewing the one and only chance I was going to get?
First, I recreated a seam scenario as close to what the finished jacket had - meaning the solid black fabric was on the underside of the lapel.  The perforated fabric was on the top side.
Then I tested:

• the best needle choice to prevent skipped stitches.  Of course, new is always preferable.
• stitch length - what would look the best on the finished edge.
• which stabilizer tore away the easiest without too much pulling and stress on the stitches.

This is just a photo of the test sample.  I did about 3 different swatches.

































After choosing the most appropriate stitch length, best needle and stabilizer, I prepared the stabilizer.  It had to be cut in the exact shape of the neck line curve so that I could lay it in place and see the folded edge of the seam.  I used the pattern's neck edge for this.

Then I took a deep breath, centered my thoughts and began topstitching.  Remember, I had only one chance at this - this fabric was so unforgiving that I couldn't pick it out if I happened to sew crooked.

 

Here's a close-up of the stitching before the stabilizer was torn away.

Next came tearing the stabilizer away.  Even this needed to be done with control - one side at a time for both the upper and under layers.

When it was all said and done, I was quite happy with the results, but I'd been agonizing over this final process for the last few days, knowing that it was one chance or the whole thing would be ruined.

Here's a close-up.

I am happy with the results.  Feel free to comment or add your opinions of how you would have tackled a similar challenge.  Also, watch for a new downloadable Fashion Leaflet describing how to modify your SFD bodice blueprint to achieve this jacket.  I hope to have that available for your soon.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

P.S. Although this next jacket isn't quite the same (nor is it a Sure-Fit Designs jacket), when I saw it on Imogene Lamport from Inside Out Style - I thought it was so similar in design with the exposed zipper offset on one side, that I wanted to show it to you.  And what a difference it makes to sew it in white for a summery look...also notice the shorter hip length...more like the NYC jacket in white and black.

 

Easy Front Inset Pocket in a Stretch-Woven Cropped Pant

I was given a remnant of fabric - just enough to sew a pair of cropped pants with an easy front inset pocket.  Since it was a stretch-woven, I did size down my body blueprint 1 measurement dot.  This seemed like enough at the time, but as can happen with stretch knits and stretch-woven fabric, I still basted the seams first - did a try-on - and ended up slimming the hip line even a little more.  You just never know how much it's going to give and how it's going to feel on your body.

Always do a stretch test by picking up 10" on the crosswise grain and stretch it comfortably.  This stretched up to 13" meaning it's a moderate stretch knit.  It should only need to be sized down one dot, but what this doesn't account for is the fabric's ability to rebound or recover.  This particular piece didn't have great recovery.

Now on to the easy inset pocket in the pants front.  The upper and under pocket is all one piece of fabric.

Then you fold the pocket lining - in this case - the beige fabric - up so that the lower cut edge meets back up at the waistline.

If you'd made the pocket lining out of the same fashion fabric, then you would not need to face the 'under' pocket.  But that's not always suitable or practical if the fashion fabric is too heavy.  In this instance, the next step was to cut a shaped facing piece and sew it on to the right side of the waist edge of the under pocket lining.

 

You can also see that the inside edge(s) of the pocket bag have been sewn/serged together.  (Likely best to sew the topstitching on the pocket opening before sewing this inside bag seam).

 

Topstitch the pocket opening if you wish.  Then with the pocket in position, baste through the pocket bag and the side seam and the upper pocket edge to the pants front at the waist edge to hold it in place during the remainder of the construction steps.

This very easy pocket designing and sewing technique is found on page 22 & 23 of your Sure-Fit Designs Pants Kit Instruction Book. It's a Jeans style of pocket without the fuss of a separate upper and under pocket.  If you haven't yet, try it to see just how easy it is.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

Just a Reminder...

Many of you ask for help. And all of you know, or should know by now, that I am more than willing to offer input, suggestions and solutions for whatever your issue happens to be.

But...I do need to remind you that sometimes your verbal description of what is going on can be 'Greek' to me. You all know how it is so easy to mis-interpret what someone has written.

A picture really is worth a thousand words.

What am I talking about??? When you ask for help via email, please include a photo (or photos) of whatever your question is about. That way I have a better opportunity to evaluate your situation, figure out what you've done (some times I can...some times I can't) and offer suggestions.

There is a page on our websites dedicated entirely to our Customer Support. If you haven't yet run across this page, please click here - Customer Support.

If your question happens to be about the fit of your body blueprint, please make sure you have watched this video first.

Even though I'm demonstrating on a Pants pattern, the same concepts and general cautions also apply to all the Sure-Fit Designs master patterns. How you've drawn your pattern is extremely important.

In my fitting classes, I see all kinds of ways and attitudes about what someone thinks is accurate and how fastidious they are in taking care that the dots and connecting lines are accurate....and then I see others who also think the same thing, but the pattern reflects less attention to detail. This same lack of attention to detail is often reflected in their sewing technique, which of course can change the finished result. Please take your time. So many of you know that the pattern drawing process is truly easy to do and doesn't take much time, but you also know that attention to detail will affect the resulting fit.

And, if you are wondering about a particular style or design or process and wondering where the information is found within the Sure-Fit Designs system, please, please, please download this free Sure-Fit Designs INDEX (which was compiled by Sara Gray - a SFD customer).

Just go to FREE STUFF and scroll down the page. You'll see it. Sara did a remarkable job of indexing where all the information is found within the SFD fitting system materials. It's easy to read and easy to find what you're looking for. Please look here first. Then if you can't find what you're seeking, email me for help.

And last, but certainly not least, if you are wanting help with fitting suggestions or how to design something, you might likely just find the answer in the SFD Video Library - http://www.sfdlearningcenter.com/Video_Library.html or in the Article Library http://www.sfdlearningcenter.com/Article_Library.html

Each month I try to add at least one more video or one more article. I don't always have time to announce these in the newsletter (or anywhere else for that matter). But it really is worth your time to check back to these resources regularly to see if anything is new.

Thanks so much for continuing to be a loyal Sure-Fit Designs user and customer. I truly do enjoy hearing from you.




Kindly,

Glenda

Inseam Pockets (Almost Invisible)

If you check out your Sure-Fit Designs Pants Kit Master Patterns (Pants Back), you'll see a 'tear-drop' shaped Inseam Pocket pattern.

1. Copy the pattern on your tracing vellum. You don't need to add seam allowances since this particular pattern piece already has them incorporated.

2. On both the front and back pants patterns, mark the corresponding front and back side seam notches approximately 2" (5.1 cm) and 9" (23 cm) down from the waist edge on the side seam.

3. Sew one inseam pocket to the pants front side seam, and the other pocket piece to the pants back side seam between the notches as illustrated. Clip the seam allowance to the upper and lower notches.

4. Sew the front and back pants side seam together from the hem up to the lower pocket notch. Skip the pocket opening and then continue sewing from the upper notch to the waist edge.

5. With right sides together, sew the pocket pieces together around the curved edge.

For more pocket stability, the top of the pocket can be squared off and lengthened so that it could totally be sewn in to the waist edge. This of course, would be done during step 1 - the drawing stage.

Suited to be incorporated in either skirts of pants, these inseam pockets are simple and easy to draw and sew.