Copy with Confidence

Now and again, some of you send me photos of garments you see in Ready to Wear (R-T-W) and wonder how best to copy the design.  And that's just what happened with this R-T-W Tunic. But what surprised me was the cost of these tunics - they ranged in price from $275 - $495.  I know I've sewn almost my entire life, and I certainly don't always sew for economy, but I never could justify paying that much for such a simple tunic design.

Here's one of their's...

Enter - the SFD Copy Cat Tunic

Depending on the final fit you'd want, you could use either your SFD Shirt Kit or Dress Kit pattern.  The Shirt pattern will of course give you a deeper armscye and more ease around your bust because it doesn't have a bust dart.  In copying this design, I chose to use the Dress bodice pattern because I did want the shape provided by the bust dart.

If you'd like to design and sew this yourself, click here for the Copy Cat: R-T-W Tunic

I've teamed this tunic up with my fun and comfy paisley leggings (also available as a download Fashion Leaflet only), but it would also look great with slacks or your wear-ever jeans.

I had just enough 'scraps' remaining from my leggings to face the neck opening, add a skinny mandarin-style of collar, and trim the 3/4 length sleeves.

 

I love the comfort, design and fit...and the price was certainly right.

Enjoy...the new Copy Cat: R-T-W Tunic

And just a last footnote - I wore this leggings and tunic combination during the recent Fit & Sew Retreat (April '13).  My husband, Wesley, (who was donning his chauffeur hat) was also at the sewing studio one day showing the ladies his SFD track suit.  This next photo is shown with permission from Sandra Carden who took the picture.  (Sandra's sewing blog - http://makingitwithhelp.blogspot.com/)

I'm now booking ladies for the October 6 - 11, 2013 Fit & Sew Retreat.  If you'd like to consider joining us, you can see additional retreat details here - http://www.surefitdesigns.com/Classes_Events.html

Adding a Dart to the SFD Shirt Kit pattern

If you read last week's blog, you'll have seen Joy's (Joyful Expressions) version of the Shawl Collar design incorporated into the SFD Shirt Kit pattern.  And if you did, you'll remember that Joy added a bust-fitting dart to her Shirt front pattern.

Many of you know that the Shirt Kit does not have a bust fitting dart...and many of you know what that means.  If you have a fairly full bust, the front of any pattern will hike up since there simply isn't enough shaping of the fabric to conform to your curves.  And even though the Shirt Kit front and back pattern together has about 5" - 6" total chest circumference ease, when your bust is much bigger than a B-cup dart, the front will likely hike up.

This photo is a good example of moderate hiking up in the front.

If this is a situation that happens with you when you wear dartless garments, here is a video showing you how to use the SFD Adjust-A-Bust template to add a dart to the Shirt Front pattern.

I may be modifying this video slightly, but for the time being, this process will help you to achieve the bust shape you need.

Success with the Shawl Collar

The more you experiment and the more you design with your Sure-Fit Designs patterns, the more confident you will become.

Joy (from Joyful Expressions) has completed a Shawl Collar blouse.  She followed the directions on page 44-45 of the SFD Dress Kit Instruction book to add this shawl collar design to her SFD Shirt Kit and what a success it has been!  That's one of the many benefits of Sure-Fit Designs is that you can mix and match instructions from one kit and use them on another.

Let's take a look.

First...the pattern.  You'll notice the dart which she added to her shirt pattern for her full bust.

Now, the finished blouse - front...

And the back...

And a close-up of the collar...

Yes, it does have a little inverted 'V' or upside-down dip at CB.  How to avoid this is look at your vellum pattern - draw that segment out twice - and match the CB seam up, just like you would be sewing it.  You'll see this in the patterning/drawing stage.  You can easily reshape this curve before cutting your fabric, which is the only reason I'm pointing this out, so that all of you reading this can learn just one more designing tip.  But quite honestly, had Joy not pointed this 'V' out, you could have easily assumed this was an intended design feature.

Don't get down on yourself when experimenting with designing and drawing your patterns.  All of life is a fabulous learning process, so enjoy the journey!


And knowing Joy as I do from her blogs, she re-drew this pattern and sewed a second shawl collar blouse.  Notice the back of the collar no longer has the inverted 'V'.

Well done Joy!  I'm so glad you are enjoying fitting and sewing with your Sure-Fit Designs pattern kits.

(To read Joy's blog entry about her Shawl Collar experiences, click Joy.)

Fit & Sew Retreat - April '13 Highlights

Attendees came from far and wide - AZ, FL, NV, NY, GA, CA & IL.  It truly was wonderful to meet everyone and help them with their fit issues.

We dealt with sloping and asymmetrical shoulders, rounded and broad backs, forward-thrusted neck/head, flat backsides and short and tall.  This was quite a mix of body shapes and sizes!

The sewing studio - Our Sewing Room in Springfield OR - is a great venue for this retreat.  It comes fully equipped.  You simply need to show up!

Here are some 'action' shots you might enjoy seeing.

If you'd like to read a totally independent (and I might add - very thorough review) of Sandra's thoughts and experiences with the Fit & Sew Retreat, just jump on over to her blog - Click Here - Sandra - making it with help.

Here are a few comments from others who attended.
' Thank you again so much for such a wonderful week. I learned so much and had such a great time with you and the other ladies. I appreciate all of your help and endless efforts to ensure I left with slopers that fit me. You are a gracious and encouraging teacher.  I  also look forward to sharing with all my sewing buddies the many things I learned last week. Again, many thanks for your patience with me and my fitting issues.'
Kay W. - GA

'Glenda, you are an excellent teacher and extremely well spoken. Your classes are the best fitting classes I have ever taken and I can recommend them without reservation.  Your professionalism, expertise and courtesy create the perfect learning environment.'
Kathy - FL

'Glenda, your mix of general class instruction combined with personal one-on-one help was perfect for this venue.'
Linda - CA

'I was so happy with the class.  It was so great to meet the other ladies and work with them.  Learning with you was absolutely fabulous - you are such a patient lady (I know we can be trying with our ways of thinking sometimes). I also enjoyed watching you help other people as it was more learning about different body types which is a plus for me.'

Vicki - NV

These next few photos are 'work(s) in progress'.  If you've ever tired to photograph muslin that has been 'worked over', you'll know that the wrinkles are not fit issues.  Any number of things like stitch ripples, body stance, lighting and a myriad of other factors come in to play.  These are quick snapshots of real body life.  Everyone that attended was extremely happy with the resulting fit of both their pants and bodice.

These ladies were all very generous in allowing themselves to be photographed.  Thanks so much to all of you.

Fitting Commercial Patterns - Last But not Least!

This video is the last in this short mini-series on fitting commercial patterns using your Sure-Fit Designs bodice blueprint from the SFD Dress Kit.

My intention was that this video information has helped you to feel more comfortable working with your body blueprint in coordination with your commercial patterns.  Some patterns are going to be far more complicated than others.  I encourage you to initially start off with something simple.

FCP - Example #3:

Another way in which to incorporate some of the design features from a commercial pattern, is simply to use a specific pattern piece.  Perhaps you see a collar that you dearly love and have to have.  If you're unsure  of how to draw it yourself, simply use the element from the commercial pattern and apply it on to your SFD blueprint/sloper.  And depending on the shape and placement of the collar, you may need to re-draw the SFD neckline.  Once again, just copy it off of the commercial pattern...then apply their collar.  Of course, during construction, you'd follow along with their sewing construction steps.  You end up blending the best of both worlds.

Have fun!
Glenda

Fitting Commercial Patterns - Example 2

Here's another visual example of working with a commercial pattern that may be of interest to you.

FCP - Example #2

Also, if you already own Sew Sensational Shirts, you'll know this is a design that is easily drafted from 'scratch' using your SFD Shirt Kit.

Fitting Commercial Patterns - Example 1

The FCP (Fitting Commercial Patterns) video mini-series.

Example #1:

I encourage you to share these videos on your own sewing blog or Facebook page.  Your sewing friends may be interested.

Kindly,
Glenda

Fitting Commercial Patterns - General Guideline Video

Last week I offered information on helping you to work with and fit your commercial patterns.  So, going on with this major topic, the next 4 videos are a 'mini-series' that will help to shed some light on this process.  This video gives you a visual explanation of the general steps to consider.

PS - Don't you just wish you could choose the video capture that is displayed for the video.  You Tube gives us three images to choose from and sometimes none of them are that great.  But oh well, the service is free (so far), so we can't complain too much.

Fitting Commercial Patterns

Many of you often ask if your Sure-Fit Designs body blueprint can be used to help you fit commercial patterns.  The answer is a resounding 'YES'!  When you have your personal pattern blueprinted to your unique body shape, then you definitely can use it as a guide when working with your stash of commercial patterns.

Keep in mind, that generally speaking, no two commercial patterns are identical, so the steps and guidelines to do this process will vary from design to design.  But there are some general guidelines that will make this process easier.

Here you go...

1. Size: Choose a size that is the closest to your size – e.g. bust to bust circumference, hip to hip circumference.

2. Seam allowances: Since most commercial patterns already have a seam allowance of (5/8”) (1.6cm) wide, make sure your Sure-Fit Designs body blueprint also has the seam allowance in place.  Or if working with a sloper without seam allowances, make sure you mark and remove allowances from commercial pattern.

3. Darts:  Does the commercial pattern have darts – in any location?  If it has darts, you will use your SFD Dress Kit bodice; if it has no darts, you will likely use your SFD Shirt Kit for comparison.

4. Dart location: Where are the darts?  Have they been moved into a design feature like a princess line, gathers or tucks?

5. Neckline:  Is it with or without a collar?  What type of collar? What is the shape of the neckline – ‘V’, u-shaped, heart etc?

6. CF detail: What’s happening at CF?  Does it button up the front thereby requiring button extensions and a facing, is it a pullover with CF on the fold, does it have a zipper? How does it finish?  Whatever the commercial pattern detail, can it be copied directly onto your SFD bodice?

7. Armhole shape:  SFD v.s. the commercial pattern armscye will no doubt be different shapes.  The SFD armhole is likely higher and a closer fit to your body.  Listen to the General Guidelines video explaining the reason for this.  The commercial pattern armhole, depending on its intended design and ease, will likely be lower, deeper.  This can give more ease, but not necessarily the better fit.

8. Sleeve:  If you use the commercial pattern armhole, you should/must use the corresponding sleeve.  If you prefer your SFD armhole, you should/must use your SFD sleeve.

9. Garment Ease: Analyze the look and feel of the commercial pattern.  Is it intended to be loose with lots of ease, or more fitted and shaped to the body?  Read the pattern back details for intended ease and fit.

10. Design Details:  Read the pattern back information.  Is the pattern supposed to have shoulder pads etc?

11. Differences: No two patterns will be alike.  Working with and fitting your commercial patterns will always be a process of individual evaluation based on that specific pattern.

12. General Steps: Lay the commercial pattern over top of your SFD body blueprint, then line up the CF with the SFD CF (or CB with the SFD CB) and shoulder line to shoulder line.  Where are the differences?  What’s wider or narrower, longer or shorter?  Can you copy a special commercial pattern design detail directly onto your SFD body blueprint?  Then lay a piece of tracing vellum over top and create a 3rd layer, incorporating your good fit from SFD and the special design feature from the commercial pattern.

Next week, I'll start showing you 4 videos on this topic.  Until then...

Posture...What to do with your pattern if you have a Rounded Back and/or Protruding Shoulder Blades

I know I should stand up taller and straighter.  I know my shoulder bones rock a little forward.  How easy it is to slump!  And I know that if I don't pay attention to this now, that eventually I might need to do a rounded back minor tune-up/adjustment.  So as I prepared for this video I kept catching myself being aware, sitting straighter and walking taller.  But then the slump returns! It's so easy to loose this awareness.

Your rounded back might be genetic or from disease or simply from the forces of gravity taking its toll.  But, if you are one who requires a rounded back adjustment, or perhaps you have protruding shoulder blades, or maybe you have both issues to deal with, you'll no doubt benefit from the information I've provided in this video.

If you have any questions or simply want to leave a comment, please do.  Or if you'd like to share this information with others, you are welcome to.

Kindly,
Glenda