Knit Tip - Hems...Hmmmm

A beautifully prepared and finished hem enhances the look of any garment whether working with knits or woven fabric. In this blog, I'll focus on knit hemming techniques. But because a knit is by nature stretchy, sometimes achieving a nice, flat edge to hem can be challenging.

In a nutshell, here are some of your options:

• If the knit doesn't run, some can be left just as the cut edge.

• Some knits will do well with a serged/overlocked edge, turned up 1/4" and topstitched.

• A decorative (serged) rolled and stretched lettuce edge might be appropriate for some garments.

• Perhaps simply folded to the inside and bonded with a fusible web will work for some knits.

• Consider using a blind hem for more stable double knits.

• Some knits will require stabilizing first - particularly those where the cut edge tends to curl. Then once turned to the inside could be cover stitched - if you have a cover stitch machine option.

And though I don't (currently) have photos of all options, let's take a look...

This is a slinky-type jacquard knit. The drape is lovely, it has a beautiful hand and is a stable knit - meaning it does not run. Because the hem goes up and down and up and down, it would have made it challenging to sew even a narrow 1/4" turned hem.

The solution - leave the cut edge as is.

Here's a close-up of the cut edge. (I wish I'd bought more of this fabric in different colors - hind sight is always 20/20).













Next you'll see a much thinner knit where the edge is beginning to curl.

Some knits curl considerably more than this example.







And even though this next knit wasn't particularly 'curly', the fabric itself is quite thin and for a really nice hem, I stabilized it. I'll show you how

This is a 1 1/4" wide strip of iron-on fine, fusible interfacing which I fused to the inside of the hem edge.

If you don't have a pre-cut roll of fusible interfacing, you can cut your strips from yardage. This roll is pre-cut at 1 1/4" wide. I wanted a 1" wide hem, so I very carefully trimmed away 1/4".

Then press the 1" hem toward the wrong side.

I used the Cover Stitch option on my BabyLock Evolution. This is what the inside looks like.

I love this Cover Stitch option. As long as your hem is perfectly lined up, the result is 2 perfectly spaced rows of stitching...just like in ready-to-wear. And by having added the fusible interfacing at the edge of the hem, the fabric laid flat and stable throughout the stitching process.

The outcome was just what I intended it to be.




Kindly,

Glenda

P.S. The side of the hem hikes up slightly on the right side. This was intentional. I inserted shirring elastic on the right side seam only which results in a slight asymmetrical drape at the hem - all part of the plan!

Knit Tip - Where's the back of my pants??

Have you ever put your pants on backward and wondered why they felt so uncomfortable? I think we all have. When you sew them (knit pull-on pants), it's often difficult to distinguish front from back unless you stop to compare the crotch lengths.

This is a simple, decorative technique to help you quickly identify center back of your pants waistband.

Make sure waistband piece is cut the size that you need: 2 times the width of elastic plus seam allowances.
With short ends together, sew waistband in a circle creating the CB seam. Fold lengthwise with the seam to the inside and press a lengthwise crease indicating the top edge of the waistband.
Designate one side for the inside of the back of the pants. Stabilize the area to be stitched with tear-away stabilizer or iron on interfacing.

With waistband unfolded, stitch over the seam using a decorative stitch pattern in contrasting color.

Here's a short video talking about this simple knit tip.

Enjoy....
Glenda

**News Flash! - Bodice Fitting Course on DVD

I'm interrupting the short Knit Tip blog series for this important news flash!

The Bodice Fitting Course on DVD is finally done and available for you.  After many requests and with your enduring patience, we have finally produced this bodice fitting course to help you get an excellent bodice fit with your Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit.

This short video gives you highlights of what's in the course and what you can expect. Please click on this link:

http://youtu.be/lQ50qAEp7Yk

This 2-DVD set, with 3.5 hours of instruction, is really the next best option to being here in Oregon with me in one of my Fit & Sew Retreats.  I know you'll benefit a lot by following along as I take you through the entire process of drawing off your SFD bodice with the Dress Kit.  For those of you reading this blog who don't yet have your SFD Dress Kit, you will need that along with the Designing Stylus and some tracing vellum.  If you follow the highlighted links, they take you to the respective pages on the Sure-Fit Designs website.

I'm offering a Pre-Order Special where you'll receive a 20% discount.  The new DVD course is regularly $59.95, but until March 31, 2014, if you enter Discount Code: BFC20 while in the Shopping Cart, you'll receive the discount.  The special price is $47.95 (+S&H).
Just click on this link to purchase yours - SFD Bodice Fitting Course on DVD

I'll share with you the insider tips that I talk about in my fitting classes.

You'll be shown 4 extra measurements that help you to drill down and truly personalize the first draft of your bodice.

There are 16 Lessons as well as 52 insider Pro-Tips to help you on your road to bodice fitting success.

And, there is even a lesson on designing with your blueprint.  You'll see the multitude of styles and fashions you'll be able to achieve no matter your body shape, lengths and circumferences.

I'm sure you'll enjoy this new Bodice Fitting Course on DVD.

Kindly,
Glenda

Knit Tip - Joining Waist Elastic

This is a very simply tip to eliminate unnecessary bulk when sewing pull on pants with elastic in the waistband. Just follow these easy steps.

1. Cut a piece of muslin or stable cotton/poly blend fabric the width of your elastic by 3 inches. ie: If using 2" (5cm) wide elastic, cut stabilizing fabric 2" X 3". (5 x 8 cm).

2. Measure and cut your elastic to go around your waist. But make sure that is is cut exactly the measurement you need and test it to ensure that it will pull up comfortably over your hips yet not be too loose at the waist.

3. Make sure the elastic is cut with evenly squared edges.

4. Butt the edges of the elastic together. With the stabilizing fabric underneath, pin the elastic to the fabric, keeping ends of elastic as close together as possible.

5. Zig zag or straight stitch fabric to elastic keeping the edges of the elastic butted together in the middle of the fabric rectangle. Sew in a square shape and then reinforce by sewing an "X" in the middle of the square.



6. Trim off excess muslin about 1/4" from stitching.
The results are sturdy, lay flat and reduce bulk.

Here is also a very short instructional video showing you this simple process.

Blogger isn't letting me give you the video directly on this page, so here's a link to the video - takes less than 5 minutes to watch. Enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPRpjkFJ8PQ

I'm sure some of you already use this technique, but for some of you, this may be new. It's great - give it a try!


Kindly,


Glenda

So Adorable & very Clever!

Isn't this little girl just adorable?  And she has a mom who's been very clever and creative in sewing this 'dress'.  Actually, mom, who's name is Samara, took a ready made man's shirt, her daughter's SFD Children's Kit pattern, cut the shirt all up, and sewed it back together.  I'm including her instructions so you'll get the total picture of what she did.

.

'To make the bodice, I took a man's shirt with all the buttons buttoned up.  I flattened and straightened it as much as possible.  Then I took my daughter's front bodice pattern (from the Children's Kit), laid it over top, and line the center front up with the middle of the buttons.  I matched the pattern's shoulder seam (not seam allowance) with the shoulder of the shirt.  Then, with a pencil, I traced around the armhole, side and bottom of the pattern.  I did that on right and left sides, then flipped the shirt over and did the same with the back bodice pattern.

Then I cut on the drawn lines...of course, the collar and shoulders of the shirt were still intact.

Next, I cut the sleeves from the original shirt and laid my daughter's sleeve pattern over top.  Because I wanted a few more gathers in the sleeve, I first slashed and spread it open to make it a bit fuller.  I matched my desired hem level with the pre-hemmed shirt sleeve - meaning I didn't need to do any hemming at all.

Next, I set the sleeve in and then sewed the entire side and sleeve length...similar to how one would do a raglan sleeve.  I do this with smaller clothing because it's a little easier to sew in the sleeve when the side seams are still open.

For the contrasting tie/belt, I stitched two large buttonholes an inch apart in 4 separate places on the bodice (8 buttonholes in total).

For the skirt, I left the shirt hem intact, measured how long I wanted the skirt, cut straight across the man's shirt and then gathered and sewed it to the bodice.

The collar, sleeve and skirt hems and CF buttons were already done.  I loved that!  The entire dress probably took about 1 hour from start to finish.  All the sewing I needed to do was to set in the sleeve, sew the sides and add the skirt.  And of course, with her SFD pattern laid over top, I knew it was all going to fit.

Oh...and the tie...I also made bloomers from the tie fabric just because I couldn't resist.'

Samara...cute, cute, cute...and so clever and creative!

Not too many ladies share their children's sewing projects with me. Thanks so much and also for giving permission to share your experience with all my readers.
Kindly,
Glenda

What can I do with that dart?

Last week I showed you how to transfer the side-fitting bust dart down into the high hip area to create a curved French dart.  This week, you'll see that the dart can easily become gathers.

In the 2013 October Fit & Sew Retreat, we had lots of variation in what each lady wanted design-wise for her tank top project.  Denise choose to relocate the dart up into the scooped neckline and to stitch the newly-opened dart space into gathers.  In the following photo, Denise is testing the distribution of the gathers before applying the neckline binding trim.

 ...and a close-up

This is what her pattern looked liked. Notice that she distributed the dart space fairly evenly over 3 different slash lines coming down from the lowered neck edge up to the apex mark.  Whatever size your dart shape/size is, it will be maintained during this transfer process.

The neck edge, armholes and hem line are now completed and the fit is (yes, of course) unique to her body shape.

This Tank Top design with the Center Front Neckline Gathers, can be found on this page of downloadable Fashion Leaflets (just scroll toward the bottom of the page).

Isn't that color perfect for her?  I know we're looking at sleeveless in our colder winter months, but you can see she'll be ready for warmer weather as the new year progresses.

Denise...thanks so much for sharing your accomplishments.

Our Not-so Neglected Men!

Most women sew for themselves...and we love it!  But one of my Fit & Sew Retreat students took upon herself the task of sewing jeans for her husband.  Kathleen initially sewed him a 'muslin' test.  Dan is a slender man with a bit of a flat butt, but Kathleen did a fabulous job of reducing fullness in the back for his unique shape.

Then she went on to design and sew his first 'home-made jeans'.  And all I can say is, 'Wow, Wow, Wow!'  Here are the photos of the front, back and side views.

Yes, the fit is great for Dan's build and posture, but wait till you see the expert stitchery up close!

They took some time to do, of course, but this kind of attention to detail requires time, care and love of her craft.  Not a thread or stitch out of place!  Kathleen deserves to be proud (and congratulated) and so does he.

This was all done with the Men's Instructional Package with the Leaflet inside on designing men's jeans.

And you should see the machine Kathleen sews on...yes, it's an (old) Singer.

Just goes to show ya' that you don't need a top-of-the-line machine with fancy stitches to do precision work.
What can I say, but Wow, Wow, Wow!!

Lining Know - How

I'm sure you've often wondered whether to line a garment or not. Yes, it does take extra time, effort and cost, but usually the instances when you'd line a garment are well worth the extra investment. Here are a few pointers, facts and details - what lining is, why to use it and some fabric choices.

Basically, a lining is a replica of a garment that is attached to the inside of the garment at various points. It is an inner garment made of thin, silky fabric that is sewn on the inside of the fashion garment.

The following are excellent reasons why you'd line a garment.
It is used to cover internal constructions details.
Lining makes garments hang better, fit smoothly and hang more comfortably.
Lining a garment makes it easier to put on and take off.
Lining is often a hallmark of quality clothing.
A lining will conceal the raw edges of a garment and prevent fraying.
Lining provides a beautiful finish to armholes and neck edges.
It provides warmth.
It replaces the need for a slip.

Silk-type fabrics are often used for the lining fabric, however, there are many choices available. A general rule is that the lining fabric should never be heavier than the garment fabric. It is also wise to choose an anti-static fabric to avoid static cling in the finished project.

Typically the lining is cut the same dimensions as the fashion fabric, though if you want prevent some of the stress on the outer fabric, the lengthwise seams of the lining can be sewn just slightly wider than those of the fashion fabric. When wearing, the stress on the fabric will then be on the lining, not on the fashion fabric. Also, you'll want to shorten the hem of the lining about 1/2" to 1" shorter than the fashion fabric.

Some fabric choices for linings are:
Silk Crêpe de Chine - softly textured, available in a variety weights, provides excellent drape, does not fray.
Acetate Satin - beautiful drape and sheen, easy to take on and off, no static
Polyester Habotai (also know as China silk) - economical, durable, drapes well, wrinkle and stain resistant.
Though linings are often the same or similar color tones to the fashion fabric, you can also choose more bold colors or attractive prints.

There is a difference between lining and underlining. Underlining is a second layer of fabric cut from the pattern and sewn as one piece with the fashion fabric. It is used to add weight, firmness and stability to the fashion fabric.

As an alternative to lining, underlining backs the fashion fabric and is attached by hand or machine basting wrong side to wrong side of each garment piece before sewing the garment together. Then the underlining and the fashion fabric are treated as one piece.

This method does not conceal the raw edges, which must still be finished.
It does, however, reduce clinging, stretching and wrinkling.
It provides firmness to the outer garment and can reduce the buildup of static electricity in some fabrics.

Underlinings may also be referred to as Mounting.

Some fabric choices for underlinings are:
Cotton Voile - sheer and thin, provides stability for light to medium weight silk, absorbent
Rayon Challis - soft and light, adds depth but not bulk to garments
Cotton Flannel - provides warmth and absorbency, lightly napped surface

And then there's interlining. This is a term used for a layer that sits between the fashion fabric and the lining fabric. Batting or wool would be a good example for interlining.

Cowl Collection

Everybody's loved the cowl neck blouse designs in Beyond Bodice Basics.  For those of you who have this Dress Kit designing book but haven't undertaken a project yet, let me inspire you with these cowl neck blouses.

This is Style 3, Variation #1
Let's just call this one the regular 'vanilla version'.

One of my Fit & Sew Retreat students, Kathleen, chose to draw this pattern as her bodice project during the workshop.  At first she said that she was a little intimidated by the instructions, but once she got into drawing the pattern, she realized that the instructions were very clear and logical.  It all came together just like it was supposed to.  Here's what Kathleen's pattern looked like.

 And here's a happy student in her finished blouse.   A drapy, soft knit is a good choice for this pattern design.

And from Kentucky, we also have Cowl Neck blouses contributed by some of the members of the ASG Fit & Style group.
Shelby Smarte chose to design and sew a sleeveless version. Nicely done, Shelby.

From Kathy Wille, we see her lovely finished blouse.  Looks fabulous.  I bet it looks even better on you, Kathy!

Cowl necks - different body shapes...all look lovely.  Thanks for the group photo ladies!

Another Kentucky contribution from Marilyn Neel in her summery sleeveless cowl neck dress that she called 'Summer Breezes'.  She loved it so much, Marilyn sewed the same dress with 3/4 sleeves, which she called 'Shades of Autumn'.  That's gorgeous fabric in both dresses, Marilyn!

This is Style 3, Variation #2
This particular design variation features curved shoulder detailing. It's based on the same drawing technique for the drapy cowl front, but before you begin the neckline drape, you cut away the curved shoulder shape.

And this last photo contribution is from Gudrun K. from Germany.  She's sewn a coordinating outfit of pants and blouse.  Good job with the shoulder detailing!

Thank you, ladies for sharing your work.  If any more of you have sewn the cowl neck blouse and would like to send a photo, I'd love to see your accomplishments.  You likely know the address: info@surefitdesigns.com.

And for those of you who need a more 'visual' nudge, remember that your Beyond Bodice Basics designing book comes with its own how-to DVD.  You be able to see exactly how these cowl neck designs are drawn from your basic Dress Kit bodice.