I may have talked about this topic before - perfecting the dart extension point and the effect on the side seam. But even if I have, it's well worth talking about again. And now there are photos to help explain the situation and what happens.
Depending on two factors, 1) the width of the dart (A, B, C etc), and 2) the angle of the dart - it's position on the side seam in relation to your apex position, both can affect the amount of dart extension that is required for it to properly sew in straight with the side seam cut edge.
Even though I demo and teach how to 'perfect' the dart during the Fit & Sew Retreats, I've seen ladies skip this step (easy to forget when
there's so much happening in this workshop) and then pull on the edge of the
dart until it does meet the side seam when sewing front to back bodice. Then, when the bodice is on your
body, it will create a pull (drag) line from that lower dart leg toward
the side and center of the bodice. (Sorry I don't have a photo of the drag line...I accidentally deleted it when clearing the images from the camera).
But the next photo shows you how the drag line has disappeared when the seam is opened up and the dart extension point is released.
If this happens to you, it's easy to confuse this drag line as a 'fit' issue and not the 'pattern' issue that it is. When the dart is 'perfected' properly, the drag line goes away.
The Adjust-A-Bust template is a great tool for getting the correct width of dart, but it's impossible on this template to provide all the possible scenarios for the dart's extension point. It's always best to perfect the dart when drawing your bodice blueprint.
Here's a short video tutorial on 'Perfecting the Dart'.
You'll also find written directions for Perfecting the Dart on page 8 of the Dress Kit Instruction Book - 5th Edition.
Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!
Depending on two factors, 1) the width of the dart (A, B, C etc), and 2) the angle of the dart - it's position on the side seam in relation to your apex position, both can affect the amount of dart extension that is required for it to properly sew in straight with the side seam cut edge.
If the dart extension isn't long enough, it means that when the dart is folded in the correct finished location, the seam allowance edges won't meet when stitching the side seams.
Here's what it looks like if it's not 'perfected'. The above photo shows the 'inside' of the bodice pattern. The photo below shows the 'right' side of the pattern.
But the next photo shows you how the drag line has disappeared when the seam is opened up and the dart extension point is released.
If this happens to you, it's easy to confuse this drag line as a 'fit' issue and not the 'pattern' issue that it is. When the dart is 'perfected' properly, the drag line goes away.
The Adjust-A-Bust template is a great tool for getting the correct width of dart, but it's impossible on this template to provide all the possible scenarios for the dart's extension point. It's always best to perfect the dart when drawing your bodice blueprint.
Here's a short video tutorial on 'Perfecting the Dart'.
You'll also find written directions for Perfecting the Dart on page 8 of the Dress Kit Instruction Book - 5th Edition.
Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!
I've even found this short dart leg issue on commercial patterns, and always assumed they knew best for their design - I'll add extra now, just in case, and test the fold first.
ReplyDeleteHi Sarah, This can create a big issue in the look of the fit if not addressed properly. It's always a good idea to double check the dart extension.
DeleteKindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!
Your explanation on how to perfect the dart is excellent. On a similar theme I keep putting off cutting out my bodice blueprint. I am concerned about the potential need to perfect the front and back shoulder seam allowance where they meet at the neck. Do you have any tips to make sure that everything lines up correctly while still in the drafting stage before cutting? I keep worrying about correct angles in that area. I have watched the bodice fitting course dvd and the video about how to use the stylus, but am still too unsure to cut confidently.
ReplyDeleteHi Barbara, All you need to do is place the front over the back (or back over the front) at the shoulder seams (as if you were sewing it together). Simply look/check to see if the stitching line lengths are exactly the same. It's as easy as that. You could also true/re-draw the seam allowance extensions if you want to. But with the transparent vellum we use it will be easy to do.
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