Mar 21, 2017

Pleated Sleeve Detail

You remember this blouse that I'm wearing in the new Darts DVD - Versatile & Amazing

I've had many lovely comments about this blouse and some of you wondering exactly what I did to design the pleated sleeve.

I know you'll love it as it's so simple to add the pleat detail.   Use your sleeve pattern for woven fabric which has the elbow dart.  I left the elbow dart where it was.  If you wanted to, you could transfer it down to the hem line and 'remove' it...I chose to leave it in place.  If you're sewing with a knit fabric, then of course you'd use the sleeve pattern for knit/stretch fabric.

Here's what I did to the pattern.
1. Split it from the cap notch down through the hem level.
2. Spread the opening 2" (5cm).
3. Folded it as an inverted pleat - meaning each side of the pleat ends up being 1/2" (1.3cm) wide.

4. I stitched the inside/center of the fold down about 1" (2.5cm) down from the cap stitching line.  From the hem edge up, I stitched the inside/center of the fold up about 2" (5cm), so that when the hem was turned up inside the pleat would be secure.

5. Then I added a decorative (non-functioning) button to finish the hem off.

For the back of the blouse, I also added the same width for a center back inverted pleat and I shaped the hem to be just a little longer in the back.

I hope you enjoy designing and sewing this fashion blouse from your Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit.  It's all pretty simple when your bodice blueprint (sloper) fits just you.

Happy Sewing!


  1. Excellent explanation and diagrams. Thank you, Glenda!

    1. Thanks so much for your feedback. Hope you enjoy sewing this.

  2. Christine ShanahanMarch 26, 2017 at 8:36 AM

    Thank you Glenda, are those princess seams I see down the back or am I imagining them?

  3. Hi Christine Shanahan...No princess seams in back, just back shoulder darts.