UK Connection

An avid SFD seamstress from the UK has been loving, using and sharing her SFD experiences.

Jan's primary focus has been on working with the Shirt Kit master patterns, extending her wardrobe with comfortable T's and casual shirts.  She's teamed these up with her SFD Jeans, which she is extremely pleased with...and you can see why.

Jan sent a number of photos and has given permission to show all of you.  So here we go...

Jan simply did not like the bulk created by the collar with stand (on the left).  She removed it and chose a simple mandarin collar to finish the neck edge.  Doesn't she just have a loveliest of smiles?

And one to go - this comfortable brown & orange striped T-Shirt...

And, let's look at her excellent stitching on the jeans pocket...

Well done Jan!  And thanks so much for sharing your Sure-Fit Designs experiences with your sewing group.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

My Goodness...Gudrun's Collection

My goodness, our sewing friend from Germany has been on a binge...a sewing binge!

Gudrun has combined both Dress/Bodice fit and Shirt kit comfort in her selection of tops to wear with her perfect fitting and comfortable Yoga pants.

The latest Asymmetrical T-Shirt design (see Downloadable Fashion Leaflets) is quick and easy to design and sew. For this T-Shirt as well as for the Detachable Collar Overblouse (Sew Sensational Shirts) (see her green blouse above), she combined her Dress Kit bodice by transferring the bust dart down into the waist fitting dart, and then drew the design details from the pattern instructions. So whether you want the more fitted sleeve and underarm from the Dress Kit bodice pattern, or the looser, deeper armscye from the Shirt Kit, you can see these instructions for the Asymmetrical T-Shirt can be versatile and go either way.

Her second version of the Asymmetrical T-Shirt was sewn from a type of silk jersey, which stretched in all directions and was slippery and slithery.

And since 'challenge' was the mother of invention, instead of pleats which simply wouldn't drape well, she traded the pleats for gathers, and replaced the facings with self-binding.  The result? Well...a slightly different look, but she says 'I like it and it already has passed the wearing test'.


Here's my version of the Asymmetrical T-Shirt designed from the Shirt Kit.

Thanks for sharing your projects.  You all like to see what other have accomplished with their SFD patterns, so please send your photos directly to me at info@surefitdesigns.com.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

Just a Reminder...

Many of you ask for help. And all of you know, or should know by now, that I am more than willing to offer input, suggestions and solutions for whatever your issue happens to be.

But...I do need to remind you that sometimes your verbal description of what is going on can be 'Greek' to me. You all know how it is so easy to mis-interpret what someone has written.

A picture really is worth a thousand words.

What am I talking about??? When you ask for help via email, please include a photo (or photos) of whatever your question is about. That way I have a better opportunity to evaluate your situation, figure out what you've done (some times I can...some times I can't) and offer suggestions.

There is a page on our websites dedicated entirely to our Customer Support. If you haven't yet run across this page, please click here - Customer Support.

If your question happens to be about the fit of your body blueprint, please make sure you have watched this video first.

Even though I'm demonstrating on a Pants pattern, the same concepts and general cautions also apply to all the Sure-Fit Designs master patterns. How you've drawn your pattern is extremely important.

In my fitting classes, I see all kinds of ways and attitudes about what someone thinks is accurate and how fastidious they are in taking care that the dots and connecting lines are accurate....and then I see others who also think the same thing, but the pattern reflects less attention to detail. This same lack of attention to detail is often reflected in their sewing technique, which of course can change the finished result. Please take your time. So many of you know that the pattern drawing process is truly easy to do and doesn't take much time, but you also know that attention to detail will affect the resulting fit.

And, if you are wondering about a particular style or design or process and wondering where the information is found within the Sure-Fit Designs system, please, please, please download this free Sure-Fit Designs INDEX (which was compiled by Sara Gray - a SFD customer).

Just go to FREE STUFF and scroll down the page. You'll see it. Sara did a remarkable job of indexing where all the information is found within the SFD fitting system materials. It's easy to read and easy to find what you're looking for. Please look here first. Then if you can't find what you're seeking, email me for help.

And last, but certainly not least, if you are wanting help with fitting suggestions or how to design something, you might likely just find the answer in the SFD Video Library - http://www.sfdlearningcenter.com/Video_Library.html or in the Article Library http://www.sfdlearningcenter.com/Article_Library.html

Each month I try to add at least one more video or one more article. I don't always have time to announce these in the newsletter (or anywhere else for that matter). But it really is worth your time to check back to these resources regularly to see if anything is new.

Thanks so much for continuing to be a loyal Sure-Fit Designs user and customer. I truly do enjoy hearing from you.




Kindly,

Glenda

Pam's Amazing Artistry

Pam Perry (photo inset bottom left) is a Sure-Fit Designs customer, a professional make-up artist and photographer.

Lucky Pam - her husband gifted her with the SFD Works Combo and she's gone to town! The photo above shows one of her first SFD bodices. Pam sews the clothes and accessories for her photo shoots and has always used commercial patterns, but that's all changed now with Sure-Fit Designs. In the above photo, she used the basic Dress Kit bodice and admits she used a commercial pattern peplum...but redesigned it to her liking.

She commented, 'I'm loving the (SFD) kits and extras and though I've typically used commercial patterns before, I'm loving the fitting and designing! I'm so excited to make more!!'

And more she did. In this next photo, Pam is working up a mesh top from the bodice pattern, minus the darts since it's stretchy fabric. She's experimenting with studded epaulettes and leather strapping.

And now, the finished outfit on her very trendy and uniquely different model.

 Pink is sure pretty!

This is Pam's next SFD adventure. The fabric she used is called 'costume leather' purchased at Joann Fabrics. Clothing designs don't need to be complicated when using an unusual fabric on an attractive model. The side bust dart has been transferred up to the shoulder, the new cap sleeve styling is from the 5th edition Dress Kit instruction book - pg. 24, and a simple scooped neckline is all it took. And let's not forget Pam's make-up artistry and fabulous photography!

Pam's artistry and display of her work can be found at:

www.PamPerryPhotography.com

and

www.PamPerryHair.com

Thank for sharing your accomplishments Pam!

Kindly,

Glenda

Hearts & Diamonds

I call them 'hearts' and 'diamonds' - some call them 'apples' and 'pears'.  In case you didn't guess, I'm referring to hip shapes of course.  And you could be a combination of both.  What I mean by this is that the hip circumference, either high or low, or maybe even both, are substantially larger than a relatively smaller waist circumference. 

Take for instance a waist of 34" (86 cm), a high hip of 45" (114 cm), and a low hip of 51" (129.5 cm).  In my book, that's a diamond shaped hip, with the fullness of a heart in the high hip.  And the depth of the high hip is 4" (10 cm) below the waist level.  That means if you want your pants waistband to fit comfortably without being excessively loose, you'll most likely need more than one dart to shape the fabric from the waist to the high hip.

So that the side seam of the pants pattern doesn't become too overly curved going into your waist point, I've recently released a new video called 'How to Add a Dart to the Pants Waist Edge'.

It's a very simple process, and if Blogger cooperates, you should be able to click on the video below and watch this short instructional video.

If the side seam gets too curvy, it still can be sewn together successfully, but inserting a side seam zipper would not be as easy as if the seam where straighter.

The second dart is generally place about mid-way between the first dart and the side seam, and it's generally shorter.  Of course this is variable and it can be placed where you most need it to accommodate your curves.

This process is easy to do and works quite well for the distinctive curvatures that many hearts and diamonds have.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

Tying it all Together

Sometimes it's difficult for some of you to visualize taking an idea from 'here' and mixing it with an instruction from 'there', then adding a little something extra from 'where'. As so many of you know, the Sure-Fit Designs system is not just a fitting system. It also offers all kinds of written instructions and video information on not just fitting, but on designing with your body blueprint (sloper) once you have it completed.

For those of you who follow this Sure-Fit Designs blog, you know that the last few blogs have been on pocket types, applications and sewing technique. As I was preparing the sample photos on drawing and stitching the double welt pocket, I also happened to be at our local JoAnn's (and almost one and only fabric store in Eugene, Or) I came across this novelty stretch bottom weight. I loved it immediately and thought of pants with a welt pocket in the back.

Next step was tying it all together. What style of pants did I want? Since the fabric had about 3 - 4% Spandex, even though it was a woven fabric, I knew it would give when wearing. Skinny came to mind. Jeans came to mind. But I didn't want traditional jeans with the fly front and typical pockets. I wanted to show you the welt pocket.

Here's what I tied together:

My jeans pattern - since wearing ease had already been removed. (Jeans: Behind the Scenes on DVD)

Style #1 - Flared Leg Pants - Elasticized Waist edge from Pants that Mix n Multiply. Though I didn't want flared legs. I wanted skinny all the way to the hem. What I wanted was the side seam invisible zipper and the elastic turned over waist edge.

Blog instructions for the Double Welt Pocket (from last week).

Now for the finished photos:

The double welt pocket.

The invisible zipper and elastic waist edge.

The finished ensemble:

Brown/black leopard-skin patterned fabric for the pants. I guess they could have been tighter but considering I never wear anything skin tight they suited my preferences...and they're totally comfortable. The blouse and jacket is from the SFD Shirt Kit pattern. The blouse has a shawl collar. You'll find directions for this collar on page 44 of the Dress Kit Instruction book. The jacket has a lapel collar and is sewn from a cotton chintz. I love this classic jacket! I've worn it for years and it still looks fine. That's one thing about choosing classic designs - good, bad or boring... they go forever. Remember Chanel...the Chanel jacket...they're still selling it...and you're still sewing it. Yeah!!! for classic designs.
Kindly,
Glenda
PS. I'm going to sew another top for these pants.  I've got the fabric.  It's a really nice cool (colored) brown sport knit.  Now I just need to find the time!

Next installment...I found the time to design and sew the Asymmetrical Pleated T-Shirt from the SFD Shirt Kit.  The directions for this comfy T-Shirt are found in the downloadable Fashion Leaflets.  Click Here if you're interested.

The Double Welt Pocket

The welt part of a welt pocket is the narrow strip of fabric that forms the decorative and functional upper and lower lip of the opening for the pocket. Welt pockets can have a single or a double welt lip. These directions will be for a double welt. As with many construction techniques, there are many different ways to do most jobs. This is just one way that seems to works well.

Though there will be a pocket bag inside, the finished double welt pocket looks very much like a large bound buttonhole.

1. Mark pocket position on right side of fabric with your choice of marking method - tailor's chalk, tracing carbon or machine basting would work.

2. Cut the welt strips 1" (2.5 cm) wide for a finished 1/4" (6 mm) wide welt and at least 2" (5.1 cm) longer than the desired pocket opening.

3. Fold welt in half, raw/cut edges together. Place the welt on the right side of the garment. Place the fold of the welt toward the outside and the cut edge is on marked pocket position.

4. Stitch down the middle of each welt. Backstitch at both ends. Lines of stitching must be perfectly straight and parallel. If they're not, this won't turn out properly - start again!

5. Cut the pocket opening. Cut down the middle stopping ½” – ¾” (1.3-1.9 cm) before end of pocket. Clip diagonally to backstitched points. Keep diagonal triangle longer, it’s easier to work with. 

6. Turn welts toward inside, carefully press. The welts should just fill the opening with the folded edge of the welts just touching one another.

7. Inside pocket bag - cut the pocket bag the width of the welt plus double the depth you want the pocket to be.

8. On the inside, begin by stitching the (upper) edge of the pocket bag to the cut/raw edge of the top welt. With right sides together, begin on the welt extension, then as you stitch, you'll also sew through the fashion fabric on exactly the previous stitching. Be careful not to catch the triangle in this stitching.

9. a) Fold so that the lower welt is positioned to expose the cut edge of the welt and the bag is "down".

9. b) Then fold the remaining edge pocket bag up to meet the cut edge of the welt thereby covering up the pocket opening hole. Flip over so that you can see where to stitch, then sew beginning on the welt extension through the fashion fabric toward the other end.

10. Fold the fashion fabric back to expose the welt extension and the triangular wedge tab. Stitch across the triangle flush to the body of the garment, stitching through the welt extensions and pocket bag.

11. Trim pocket bag width as desired. Then sew sides of pocket bag together including welt extensions.  

If you've never sewn a double welt pocket, I highly recommend creating a sample from fabric that is lightweight, yet has a relatively crisp 'hand' so that when you press the fold in the welts and when you turn the welts to the inside they will press nice and flat.

Inseam Pockets (Almost Invisible)

If you check out your Sure-Fit Designs Pants Kit Master Patterns (Pants Back), you'll see a 'tear-drop' shaped Inseam Pocket pattern.

1. Copy the pattern on your tracing vellum. You don't need to add seam allowances since this particular pattern piece already has them incorporated.

2. On both the front and back pants patterns, mark the corresponding front and back side seam notches approximately 2" (5.1 cm) and 9" (23 cm) down from the waist edge on the side seam.

3. Sew one inseam pocket to the pants front side seam, and the other pocket piece to the pants back side seam between the notches as illustrated. Clip the seam allowance to the upper and lower notches.

4. Sew the front and back pants side seam together from the hem up to the lower pocket notch. Skip the pocket opening and then continue sewing from the upper notch to the waist edge.

5. With right sides together, sew the pocket pieces together around the curved edge.

For more pocket stability, the top of the pocket can be squared off and lengthened so that it could totally be sewn in to the waist edge. This of course, would be done during step 1 - the drawing stage.

Suited to be incorporated in either skirts of pants, these inseam pockets are simple and easy to draw and sew.