I may have talked about this topic before - perfecting the dart extension point and the effect on the side seam.
But even if I have, it's well worth talking about again. And now there
are photos to help explain the situation and what happens.
Depending
on two factors, 1) the width of the dart (A, B, C etc), and 2) the
angle of the dart - it's position on the side seam in relation to your
apex position, both can affect the amount of dart extension that is
required for it to properly sew in straight with the side seam cut edge.
Even though I demo and teach how to 'perfect' the dart during the Fit & Sew Retreats,
I've seen ladies skip this step (easy to forget when
there's so much happening in this workshop) and then pull on the edge
of the
dart until it does meet the side seam when sewing front to back bodice.
Then, when the bodice is on your
body, it will create a pull (drag) line from that lower dart leg toward
the side and center of the bodice. (Sorry I don't have a photo of the
drag line...I accidentally deleted it when clearing the images from the
camera).
But the next photo shows you how the drag line has disappeared when the seam is opened up and the dart extension point is released.
If this happens to you, it's easy to confuse this drag line as a 'fit' issue and not the 'pattern' issue that it is. When the dart is 'perfected' properly, the drag line goes away.
The Adjust-A-Bust template is a great tool for getting the correct width of dart, but it's impossible on this template to provide all the possible scenarios for the dart's extension point. It's always best to perfect the dart when drawing your bodice blueprint.
Here's a short video tutorial on 'Perfecting the Dart'. If the video doesn't display in your viewing device, please see this page - http://www.sfdlearningcenter.com/Dress-Videos-DrawingBodice.html and look for video 'D.7.4 Tutorial: How to 'Perfect' (true) the dart'
You'll also find written directions for Perfecting the Dart on page 8 of the Dress Kit Instruction Book - 6th Edition.
Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!
Depending
on two factors, 1) the width of the dart (A, B, C etc), and 2) the
angle of the dart - it's position on the side seam in relation to your
apex position, both can affect the amount of dart extension that is
required for it to properly sew in straight with the side seam cut edge.
If
the dart extension isn't long enough, it means that when the dart is
folded in the correct finished location, the seam allowance edges won't
meet when stitching the side seams.
Here's
what it looks like if it's not 'perfected'. The above photo shows the
'inside' of the bodice pattern. The photo below shows the 'right' side
of the pattern.
But the next photo shows you how the drag line has disappeared when the seam is opened up and the dart extension point is released.
If this happens to you, it's easy to confuse this drag line as a 'fit' issue and not the 'pattern' issue that it is. When the dart is 'perfected' properly, the drag line goes away.
The Adjust-A-Bust template is a great tool for getting the correct width of dart, but it's impossible on this template to provide all the possible scenarios for the dart's extension point. It's always best to perfect the dart when drawing your bodice blueprint.
Here's a short video tutorial on 'Perfecting the Dart'. If the video doesn't display in your viewing device, please see this page - http://www.sfdlearningcenter.com/Dress-Videos-DrawingBodice.html and look for video 'D.7.4 Tutorial: How to 'Perfect' (true) the dart'
You'll also find written directions for Perfecting the Dart on page 8 of the Dress Kit Instruction Book - 6th Edition.
Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!
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