Joining Waist Elastic without Bulk

This is a very simply tip to eliminate unnecessary bulk when sewing pull on pants with elastic in the waistband. Just follow these easy steps.

1. Cut a piece of muslin or stable cotton/poly blend fabric the width of your elastic by 3 inches. ie: If using 2" (5cm) wide elastic, cut stabilizing fabric 2" X 3". (5 x 8 cm).

2. Measure and cut your elastic to go around your waist. But make sure that is is cut exactly the measurement you need and test it to ensure that it will pull up comfortably over your hips yet not be too loose at the waist.

3. Make sure the elastic is cut with evenly squared edges.

4. Butt the edges of the elastic together. With the stabilizing fabric underneath, pin the elastic to the fabric, keeping ends of elastic as close together as possible.

5. Zig zag or straight stitch fabric to elastic keeping the edges of the elastic butted together in the middle of the fabric rectangle. Sew in a square shape and then reinforce by sewing an "X" in the middle of the square.

6. Trim off excess muslin about 1/4" from stitching.
The results are sturdy, lay flat and reduce bulk.

Here is also a very short instructional video showing you this simple process.

Blogger isn't letting me give you the video directly on this page, so here's a link to the video - takes less than 5 minutes to watch. Enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPRpjkFJ8PQ

I'm sure some of you already use this technique, but for some of you, this may be new. It's great - give it a try!

Happy Sewing!
Glenda the Good Stitch

 

Darts and Side Seams: - Perfecting the Dart

I may have talked about this topic before - perfecting the dart extension point and the effect on the side seam.  But even if I have, it's well worth talking about again.  And now there are photos to help explain the situation and what happens.

Depending on two factors, 1) the width of the dart (A, B, C etc), and 2) the angle of the dart - it's position on the side seam in relation to your apex position, both can affect the amount of dart extension that is required for it to properly sew in straight with the side seam cut edge.

If the dart extension isn't long enough, it means that when the dart is folded in the correct finished location, the seam allowance edges won't meet when stitching the side seams.

Here's what it looks like if it's not 'perfected'.  The above photo shows the 'inside' of the bodice pattern.  The photo below shows the 'right' side of the pattern.

Even though I demo and teach how to 'perfect' the dart during the Fit & Sew Retreats, I've seen ladies skip this step (easy to forget when there's so much happening in this workshop) and then pull on the edge of the dart until it does meet the side seam when sewing front to back bodice.  Then, when the bodice is on your body, it will create a pull (drag) line from that lower dart leg toward the side and center of the bodice.  (Sorry I don't have a photo of the drag line...I accidentally deleted it when clearing the images from the camera).

But the next photo shows you how the drag line has disappeared when the seam is opened up and the dart extension point is released.

If this happens to you, it's easy to confuse this drag line as a 'fit' issue and not the 'pattern' issue that it is.  When the dart is 'perfected' properly, the drag line goes away.

The Adjust-A-Bust template is a great tool for getting the correct width of dart, but it's impossible on this template to provide all the possible scenarios for the dart's extension point.  It's always best to perfect the dart when drawing your bodice blueprint.

Here's a short video tutorial on 'Perfecting the Dart'.  If the video doesn't display in your viewing device, please see this page - http://www.sfdlearningcenter.com/Dress-Videos-DrawingBodice.html and look for video 'D.7.4  Tutorial: How to 'Perfect' (true) the dart'

You'll also find written directions for Perfecting the Dart on page 8 of the Dress Kit Instruction Book - 6th Edition.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

Let Us Inspire You - Sew More with our Sewing and Design Challenge - Join Us!

2018 is the year of the Sewing and Design Challenge by Sure-Fit Designs!

We are SEW excited to announce the Sure-Fit Designs Sewing & Design Challenge 2018.  Our intention in offering this challenge is to inspire you to do more sewing and designing with your Sure-Fit Designs fitting and sewing kits.

Frequently, after you have sewn your test body blueprint, you think 'What now...Where do I go from here?'  This Sewing & Design Challenge will stimulate you to take the next step - sewing fashion garments with your SFD patterns.  Resources and ideas will be offered with a step by step planning platform.  No matter your skill level, we invite you to Join the Challenge!

How this Challenge Works...
The Sure-Fit Designs Sewing & Design Challenge 2018 is a year-long event to encourage designing and construction of garments using your Sure-Fit Designs (SFD) system of fitting, designing and sewing.  Your personal 'body blueprint' is your ticket to designing any style of clothing knowing that it will fit you.
Regardless of your sewing experience or experience with Sure-Fit Designs, we want to challenge you to set realistic sewing project goals now and work toward achieving those goals throughout 2018.

Get the Free Challenge Planner...





CLICK HERE
Use the Planner to:

• set goals
• plan your sewing projects
• track your progress on each project throughout the year

WIN Prizes...

For those of you who join the Challenge, as an added incentive, Sure-Fit Designs will have random drawings for various prizes thoughout 2018.  To qualify for prizes, you will need to submit photos of your finished garments.  Winners will be announced via the SFD Newsletter, the SFD Blog, Facebook, Instagram &/or Pinterest.

Rules of Participation...
In order to be eligible for a monthly prize, you must follow a few simple rules.  Entries that do not meet these criteria will be disqualified from judging for prizes.

1. Design and sew a garment using the SFD fitting and sewing system.  You can use any of the 5 SFD designing kits (i.e. Dress Kit, Shirt Kit, Pants Kit, Men's Pants Instructional Package, or the Children's Kit).
2. Take a photo of the garment on the intended wearer (not on a mannequin, dress form or hanger, etc.).
3. Post your finished garment photo to Facebook, Instagram, or Pinterest.  Include the following information in the post description:  Hashtag #sfdchallenge2018; SFD design kit(s) used; Date the Photo was Posted; Optionally, you can include a description of important design details and/or your design process.
4. If you prefer not to post your project photo to social media, you can email the photo along with the information above to: SFDChallenge2018@gmail.com. 
5. If you win a prize, you must agree to allow Sure-Fit Designs to use your project photo in promotional materials, including but not limited to the SFD web sites, social media, print materials etc.
6. IMPORTANT: Post up to 2 photos per project only; if possible please create a single photo collage of the various views you want to show for your garment.

I sincerely hope that all of you reading this blog post participate in this fun and creative challenge.  I would also ask that you share this Design and Sewing Challenge with all your sewing friends and all the social media sewing groups that you belong to.

Get organized...have fun...and sew lots!

Sign up, read more details and get your Challenge Planner here

Glenda the Good Stitch

Our February Valentines Gift for You!

Valentine's is just around the corner.  Gift yourself or a sewing friend with a $50 Gift Certificate (for just $25)
from Sure-Fit Designs.

It's good for any SFD Kit, tools or vellum
(with a minimum purchase of $49.95).

It's a great opportunity to get started with Sure-Fit Designs, stock up on Vellum or get the DVD you've been wanting.

And the best part is you'll get this $50 Gift Certificate for $25.

This offer is valid Feb 8, 2018.

But you can redeem the Certificate through to February 28, 2018.

Shop now!  Must be purchased from this special page link

 click here.

 

Treat yourself and enjoy your sewing projects.

 

Glenda the Good Stitch,

 

Just a little Inspiration!

www.surefitdesigns.com

Do you need a little inspiration to get a sewing project off the ground?  Since mid-2017 we have been posting monthly Sure-Fit Designs newsletters - Monthly Makes.  Sewn by customers just like you.

If you need a little boost to get your 2018 sewing projects underway...and you're not quite sure what to make...hopefully one or two of these customer makes will inspire you...there's lots to choose from.

  Jumpsuit (romper) using SFD Pants Kit and Dress Kit joined of course at the waistline.

 An asymmetrical hemmed top - Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit.

 

 Designed and sewn from the Sure-Fit Designs Children's Kit.

 Waterfall Jacket - a Digital E-Goods Fashion Leaflet - https://surefitdesigns.com/collections/digital-e-goods/products/waterfall-jacket

Shirt for (hard to fit) grandson by Chris Rosenthal - Sure-Fit Designs Shirt Kit

 Pencil Skirt and sleeveless Peplum blouse - Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit.

 Sure-Fit Designs gown by Bernard Burns (Dress Kit)

 

 Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit and Shirt Kit pattern for hubby.

  Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit

  Designed and sewn from the Sure-Fit Designs Children's Kit.

  Designed and sewn from the Sure-Fit Designs Children's Kit.

  Designed and sewn from the Sure-Fit Designs Children's Kit.

 The Nautical Flare Top - a Sew Along by Sure-Fit Designs

 The Caprezio Top - a Sew Along by Sure-Fit Designs

The Caprezio Top - a Sew Along by Sure-Fit Designs

For children, hubby's, and of course for yourself, sew what fits and suits your lifestyle...plan your 2018 fashion sewing projects.

Happy Fitting and Sewing!

Glenda the Good Stitch

Do you need HELP?

Help! My pattern doesn't fit!  I don’t hear this comment very often, but when I get emails or phone calls and someone says ‘My pattern’s skin tight’ or ‘My pattern is too big’, it always is important to first check that you’ve drawn your pattern correctly.  And it’s not just drawing the pattern according to the simple SFD steps, but also that you’ve added seam allowances and cut and sewn the garment all accurately.

Here is a check list of variables that you need to check first because discrepancies with any of these can change the result of the final fit.  And if you prefer to watch the video where you can see what I'm talking about, just click on the forward arrow.

1. Measuring.  Have you measured accurately?  Taking accurate measurements is always the underpinnings to getting a pattern fit to your body needs.
2. Marking pattern dots.  Have you marked your appropriate measurement dots accurately?  Make sure to use a fine/medium tipped pencil when transferring the master pattern measurement dots on to your tracing vellum.
3. Check drawn pattern widths.  Double check the widths of the resulting pattern before adding seam allowances.  Measure the pattern from stitching line to stitching line, adding any relevant segments together.  Make sure to account for the total circumference.  Compare the measurement that the pattern is giving to your actual measurement.  Remember that wearing ease is included in the master pattern.  Check the specific instruction book for ease in the pattern you are drawing.
4. Accurate seam allowances.  Are the seam allowances 5/8” (1.6cm) wide?  With the Designing Stylus, use the edge of the seam allowance slot that is nearest the outside edge of the Stylus to draw the allowance.  Spot check for accuracy.
5. Cut with care.  Whether using a rotary cutter or fabric shears, cut carefully maintaining the 5/8” (1.6cm) seam allowance.
6. Stitch accurately.  Is the stitched seam allowance exactly 5/8” (1.6cm) wide?  If you need to, place a piece of visible tape on the throat plate 5/8” (1.6cm) away from the needle.
7. Personal ease preferences.  Know how you like your clothes to fit.  The Dress Kit skirt pattern gives 3” (7.6cm) ease in the hip, while the pants pattern gives 2” (5.1cm) hip ease.  Some may find these ease allotments too little or too much.  It’s all a matter of personal preference.

When you change any of these variables, your resulting fit will naturally vary.  Please be aware of these aspects so that when you evaluate the fit of your test garment, these elements will no longer be causing any issues.

And...if you do need help...we are always here to help you.  Now that we have 4 international distributors, you are very welcome to contact your respective representative if you need drawing and fitting advice.  But first - read this page - https://surefitdesigns.com/pages/customer-service-commitment-support 
In order for any of us to better help you, you need to help us by providing photos of your test garment on you and/or your pattern work.  You know the old saying 'a picture is worth a thousand words' so please attach photos of your project.

In the UK/Ireland/EU - contact Judith Johnson at info@surefitdesigns.co.uk








In Canada - contact Anna Espindola at anna@surefitdesigns.ca

In South Africa - contact Elsabe Hurn at elsabe@surefitdesigns.co.za

In Australia/NZ - contact Martha Schuster at martha@surefitdesigns.com.au









And of course in the USA (or other international countries not covered above) contact Glenda the Good Stitch at info@surefitdesigns.com.

Here's to your fitting and sewing success!
Glenda the Good Stitch!

That Sewing Blab Interview

This should be interesting and fun. The co-hosts from That Sewing Blab will be interviewing yours truly on Tuesday night.

If you've not watched their live Internet sewing show before, Dawn from DuelingDesigns and Myra from SimpleInspirations, offer this fun and informative TV show where they interview all kinds of sewing personalities.

If you are new to Sure-Fit Designs, you can learn more on our websites:

1. www.surefitdesigns.com – the main website where ladies can find out about their pattern fitting kits, see photo galleries (real customers in real garments sewn with SFD), make purchases, find out about their Fit & Sew Retreats, etc.

2. www.sfdLearningCenter.com – their learning center. They offer over 200+ free videos on fitting, designing, and sewing. The learning center offers a Video Library and Article Library all free of charge. This valuable resource is available 24/7.

3. www.SewFitAcademyOnline.com –their courtesy website that offers a streaming video option of all of our physical DVD tutorials. They also house our Sew Alongs on this website.

We also have a worldwide distribution network where you'll find fitting and sewing help for our international sewists:
1. UK/Ireland/EU – Judith Johnson – www.surefitdesigns.co.uk
2. South Africa – Elsabe Hurn – www.surefitdesigns.co.za
3. Canada – Anna Espindola – www.surefitdesigns.ca
4. Australia/NZ – Martha Schuster – www.surefitdesigns.com.au

We'll be talking about how and when I started sewing, the evolution of Sure-Fit Designs as well as all the multiple resources we offer to those just starting out sewing as well as for our seasoned sewists.

PLEASE REGISTER - It all happens Tuesday night - 7:30PM Pacific Time - and if you want to catch the live broadcast, make sure to register on this page. If you happen to be catching your beauty sleep then, the broadcast will be available in YouTube the next day, as well as I will post it on our website - www.SFDLearningCenter.com. The video file may be too large to post in our Facebook group.

Hope you can join us...
Glenda the Good Stitch

Gosh, darn Pilly Ponte

www.surefitdesigns.com

I do love Ponte Roma, but the surface sure does pill.  What is Ponte and why does it pill?

Ponte Roma, originally from Italy (hence the name) is a double knit which is constructed with interlocking stitches that connect the front and back surfaces - like a Roman bridge. Now the term is used generically for double knits in a variety of weights, fiber content and cost from very spendy to low price.

I recommend my Fit & Sew Retreat students bring Ponte Roma for their yoga pants projects.  It's an ideal beginner's knit if the student has never sewn with knits before.  It's stable, the edges don't roll.  It's smooth and resilient.  And best of all, it feels oh so comfortable on.  It can come with either a 2 or 4 way stretch.  The lighter weight ponte is great for tops, skirts and dresses.  Whereas the heavier weight is wonderful for pants and skirts.  In the photo below, the pants are of a heavier, 4-way stretch ponte which is simply perfect for our winter weather.

This photo is of 4 students in our recent Nov 2107 Retreat who completed their 'Yoga Pants' project - all sewn with Ponte Roma.

So with all these wonderful properties why does it pill?  After 4-5 washings it can look like they been worn for years.  Such a shame.  Often times the pontes with a high percentage of polyester pill.  But I've also found that a ponte with rayon can also pill.  Some experts say the ideal fiber content is rayon/nylon/lycra.  Generally, nylon is an indication of quality.  Nylon fibers will add to the luxurious feel of smoothness against the skin.

But why does it pill?  It's not only the fiber content, but the way the yarn is made and processed.  To make a polyester yarn soft, the original smooth extruded fiber is cut into short lengths and spun into yarn.  The yarn is then constructed into fabric and in the case of ponte, is made into a double knit.  Because the polyester synthetic yarns are so strong, when they are rubbed, tiny elements of those short fibers pop out from the yarn and form pills along the surface.

What can you do about this?  Sorry...not much.  You can brush the pills gone.  Wawak sells a tailor's brush that looks like this.

And you can always use a sweater shaver.  But no matter which tool you use to remove the pills, unfortunately they will still come back with wear and washing.  Oh...so sad.

But this hasn't stopped me from sewing up at least 8 pairs of yoga pants in various leg shapes.  I simply love the feel of ponte on and as I said earlier, this fabric is so easy to sew with.

The first photo shows an entire outfit sewn with ponte.  The Yoga Pants instructions are found in our pants designing book - Pants that Mix n Multiply.  The top is the Caprezio top with complete directions from our Caprezio Top Sew Along.
The second photo features more of a flared leg pant style, though still from the Yoga Pants directions in Pants that Mix n Multiply.  And there are shown with the Cargo jacket (directions in this digital Fashion Leaflet) and a simply tank top underneath.

And last, but certainly not least, here is Anna, our Canadian Sure-Fit Designs distributor wearing her ponte Yoga pants which she sewed during her training Retreat.

Happy fitting and sewing...
Glenda the Good Stitch!

The NEW Sure-Fit Designs Website & Grand Opening Special Combo

www.surefitdesigns.com

We've listened to your requests for a more mobile-friendly website...and the good news is that it is finally ready.  This now means that no matter what type of device you are on - a computer, a tablet or a smart phone, you'll receive the best viewing options possible.

You also asked to see real people in real garments that have been sewn with Sure-Fit Designs.  As you scroll down the home page, you'll see exactly that.  Here is a sample.

Sure-Fit Designs

We did a 'soft launch' on December 19.  There were a few kinks to work out and a little tweaking to do, but I think everything is working relatively smoothly now.

So now it's time to celebrate and offer you our Grand Opening Special Combo.

This Grand Opening Combo is regularly $158.70 and provides you with the main items that women love to have when starting out with Sure-Fit Designs - both the Dress & Pants Kits, the introductory How-To DVD, a 10yd roll of Tracing Vellum, the Designing Stylus and the Designer's Companion - all for $134.95 (+ S&H).

This Grand Opening Combo will only be available until mid-night on Jan. 2, 2018 (It's hard to believe we've entered in to another New Year).

And for those of you who simply would like to supplement your existing Sure-Fit Designs patterns/tools, if you are purchasing an individual pattern Kit, DVD or vellum, please be my guest and take 10% off your order by entering Discount Code GOS10 during checkout.

These offers are valid now through mid-night January 2, 2018

Another new automated feature on the site is that you can now choose to pay with a Lay-By or Layaway option.  When you get onto the Checkout page, you'll see this option under the payment types.  When choosing this payment option, it will take you to PayPal where you can use an existing account or you can pay with the credit card of your choice.  We've tried to give you as many choices as possible to make your ordering all go smoothly and efficiently.

I sure hope you like the new site and please feel free to comment below or you're welcome to communicate with me directly at info@surefitdesigns.com.

Happy New Year everyone...
Glenda the Good Stitch!